3 Week Old Weed Plant From Seed

ive been looking a lot for the average size and I just can't seem to find it, in 4 weeks some are 5 inches. At 5 weeks some are already 12 inches. My plant… Cannabis has a number of different stages. The vegetative stage is when cannabis grows leaves and branches to be ready to support and develop the flowers. Like Comprehensive article on when and how to prune marijuana plants depending on the effect you want the pruning to have. Read on to find out more.

What is the average size for 3 weeks from seed?

ive been looking a lot for the average size and I just can’t seem to find it, in 4 weeks some are 5 inches. At 5 weeks some are already 12 inches. My plant is 3 weeks old from seed and she’s 3.5 inches. Is that normal?

dandyrandy
Well-Known Member
$bkbbudz$
Well-Known Member

Normal?? Average?? A seedling is the size it is. Kind of like an infant weighs what it weighs. The point to be concerned about is their health.

It looks fine. you may want to take a look here though:

$bkbbudz$
Well-Known Member

ive been looking a lot for the average size and I just can’t seem to find it, in 4 weeks some are 5 inches. At 5 weeks some are already 12 inches. My plant is 3 weeks old from seed and she’s 3.5 inches. Is that normal?View attachment 3682622

Welcome to RIU, and the wonderful world of cultivating the world’s most misunderstood and feared medicines.

The only ‘advice’ I can give you or anyone is to read and learn and then apply what you have read and learned to your garden and you cannot fail. Anyways, remember the search tool is your friend. Lots of folks here willing to help a new farmer get up and growing. But at the end of the day your grow will be only as good as the knowledge and work you put into it.

It is always great to ask questions but do not take anyone’s advice or opinions and follow blindly. Do your own research, you will be much happier knowing you have done it for yourself and by yourself. The first buzz you get from your own budz. is by far the BEST high you will ever have!

Do a search using your current question as the keyword(s) and ZOOOM!! Like Wonka’s Great Glass Elevator…off you go to tons of threads answering all your questions. Read all the Newbie Central stickies and learn…

After that you are a seasoned vet. Because to soak up all that information and sift through it, is going to take time. You will likely finish your first grow by then. Viola! grow complete and education well under way.

Understanding The Vegetative Stage Of Cannabis

The vegetative phase of cannabis is when the plant grows and gathers its strengths to support buds when flowering.

  • 1. Seedling phase
  • 2. Vegetative phase
  • 3. And what about autoflowers?
  • 4. In conclusion

Cannabis has a number of different stages. The vegetative stage is when cannabis grows leaves and branches to be ready to support and develop the flowers. Like all other plants, has a number of different stages. Cannabis goes through the vegetative and flowering stage before it is ready to be harvested. This article will be dedicated to understanding the vegetative stage of cannabis. We can consider the start of the vegetative stage as soon as the first true leaves appear on our seedling. The amount of nutrients, light, and water your cannabis plant needs will have to be adjusted almost every week since you see the first true leaves until the end of your plant’s life cycle.

1. Seedling Phase

Even though the seedling stage is not considered a part of the vegetative stage, the vegetative stage starts when our seedling starts growing the first true leaves. After germinating and planting your cannabis seed, you will see two small circular leaves growing, these leaves are named Cotyledons and are responsible for feeding the young plant until it is ready to enter the vegetative stage.

The start of the vegetative stage can be considered as soon as the first Cotyledons (first two small circular leaves) appear on your seedling.

The seedling will take a couple of days to completely emerges from the soil and after up to 2 or 3 weeks you will see the first true leaves. Trues leaves are “fingered” leaves, the typical cannabis leaves. Once you see the first fingered leaves, your plant has entered the vegetative stage.

2. Vegetative Phase

After those first true leaves appear, your plant is officially in the vegetative stage. Although this can seem like not a big deal for us, for the cannabis plant it is a huge one.

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This means the plant successfully survived the seedling stage and is now using its leaves and sunlight to photosynthesize, and is where growth really thrives. In this stage, your cannabis plant will need a little bit more nutrients (especially Nitrogen) and more water week by week. This along with the help of an 18/6 light cycle it will allow her to start producing sugars and promote growth.

The environment in your growing space should be adjusted for this stage also. You should start at around 60-70% humidity when you see the first true leaves, ending up at around 50% before the pre-flowering stage. The temperature has to be adjusted also and should be between 20-25 Celsius to provide an optimal growing environment for your plant.

If you can provide these conditions, you will see a new pair of fan leaves growing every day, and that is when you can see characteristics of the strain’s lineage. Indicas tend to be short and bushy while Sativas grow tall and with the fan leaves more scattered throughout the plant. When they have grown a little bit and have around 4 or 5 nodes, they’re quite strong, and that is when we can start performing LST techniques. This is because they had time to develop their branches and stem and are not as fragile as they used to be when they were starting to grow the first leaves.

Always be careful not to give your plants too much water or nutrients throughout all your plant’s life cycle but especially during the first weeks of the vegetative stage. Even though their structure is sturdier they are still sensitive. Watering too much, or giving your plant too many nutrients while she’s young can cause her to suffer from nutrient burn and slower growth from overwatering.

By providing a good combination of light, nutrients, humidity, and temperature, you will fulfill your plant’s needs and guarantee a good development of your cannabis plant. This means she will grow healthy, with a good amount of foliage and a strong root system. These are key elements that your plant needs in other to become tough and be ready for supporting the weight of the buds when it’s flowering.

3. And What About Autoflowers?

Autoflowers don’t depend on the light cycle to grow or flower. Unlike photoperiods that grow under an 18/6 light cycle, autoflowering cannabis strains grow from seed to harvest under the same light cycle, either 18/6, 20/4, or 24/0. This happens because autoflowers contain Ruderalis’ genetics which gives them the autoflower characteristic. But does this mean autoflowers don’t have a vegetative stage? The answer is: No.

Despite not depending on a certain amount of light/darkness to do so, autoflowering cannabis plants go through the same stages as every other cannabis plant, they are the seedling, vegetative and flowering stages, the only difference being that instead of transitioning from the vegetative stage to the flowering stage based on the amount of light/darkness, autoflowers will do so based on their age, which basically means they will start flowering as soon as they’re mature enough to do so. This is why you cannot extend the vegetative or flowering stage of autoflowers like you would do with photoperiodic cannabis strains.

4. In Conclusion

When in the seedling stage, our baby plant it’s still has a nutrient stock in the cotyledons. But after that stock ends and it starts growing the true leaves, it will need new sources of food, that’s where you come in. You have to provide the right amount of food and be really careful about what you feed them and the amount. Even though their structure is becoming sturdier, they’re still sensitive to overwatering and overfeeding. Everything that happens to your plant will have an influence on the final result and especially in how it develops in the next stage, which is the flowering stage. Remember, if we provide an optimal environment, our plant will grow big and healthy, but if we encounter any problems, our plants will have to recover from the shock and that can take a couple of days. The time she takes to recover can result in a smaller plant and can affect the amount and quality of our harvest. So be sure to keep your plans healthy and happy!

When and How to Prune Marijuana Plants

When and how to prune marijuana plants: depending on why you want to prune your plants, you’ll need to do it one way or another, or at a certain time or another. You wouldn’t prune the same way if you want to make a parent plant, then if you wanted your plant to have a more distributed production in order to have a more discreet plant or if it’s just the way that that particular variety is grown.

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We’re going to talk about a few different pruning situations, along with a picture and an explanation so that you know where you have to cut depending on the result you want, because not all pruning is done the same or for the same reason, so each type has a different effect on your plants.

Where to cut if you want to get a clone:

To do this, you need to make sure that the part of the plant that you want to use as a cutting is above where you’re cutting, and that there are a few small branches on it. You also need to leave a knot above the spot where you cut so that when you plant it again you can plant it deep up to the knot, because that’s where the roots will be coming out of. You’ll need to cut it just like the picture, take off the little branch from the knot where we’ll be burying our plant, make sure that you cut it at a 45º angle, and then you should put it straight into some rock wool, jiffy, or whatever you prefer. After a few days, following the right steps (go check out the article we’ve done specifically on rooting clones), your plant should have some roots.

Where to cut with the FIM pruning method:

The FIM prune is a type of cut that’s not followed through on, and it produces 4 or 5 new sprouds. At the beginning they may seem strange and deformed, but they’ll soon turn into sturdy branches, you just need to give them time. This kind of technique is perfect if you want to turn a cutting from another plant into a parent plant. Using the FIM method, you can get a lot of new branches on your plant, which will cause new slip sprouts to appear on the upper layers, which is what you’re after. The first time I tried this I got very good results even though I had never done it before, even though it might seem difficult, you just need to try and leave the middle tip when the cutting is still small, like in the picture, taking away about 60% of the tip and leaving the little leaves that were starting to come out. If you want, you can repeat the process when the tip begins to come out again. You’ll end up having an extremely dense parent plant, which’ll be extremely productive, meaning you can have a SCROG set up with a mesh in your grow room or grow tent. Take a look at our mother plants and products and get all you need to grow your clones.

Where to cut to grow two central calyxes:

To get two central calyxes and have a more centered harvest, all you need to do is cut above the two branches that we want to let grow. The cut must happen after a point in which two new branches are appearing, leaving about 1cm of trunk after those two branches. In the picture we can see the two sprouts coming out of the trunk, and even a little extra bit. In a couple of days the wound will close and the two new central points will have your plants entire attention. That’s where the most bud will be concentrated because your plant will see the two new branches as the central eye of the plant.

Where to cut if you want a nice small, wide indoor plant:

To use this prune technique you’ll have to be a bit more careful, because you’ll have to cut along the fattest part of the trunk, and your plant will have an open wound that you’ll need to cover up. This way you’ll manage to get the plant to have a high density of flowers on the inner and outer branches, creating a blanket of buds of around 40x40cm with which you can fill a square meter grow tent with just four plants or a 1,2×1,2 grow tent with up to 9 plants. This kind of pruning helps spread out the production in the shape of smaller buds but in larger quantities. You’ll need to make the cut right around the height of the lower branches, leaving the plant looking kind of like a candelabrum, allowing the shorter branches to end up at the same height as the longer ones. You’ll need to use a scarring paste on the wound or even wax from a candle so that no dirt or insects can get in and put your plant’s life in danger.

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Pruning lower branches to concentrate production at the top (Lollipop):

Some strains absolutely hate it when you prune them to increase their number of branches, so in these strains what you’ll want to do is increase the amount of production on the central stem. These strains tend to be indicas. The one that’s easiest to recognize with this kind of shape is Critical+. These plants center most of their production on the main “eye” of the plant, the central calyx, so to get the most out of these plants you’ll need to place a whole lot together and prune/trim the lower branches. This way you’ll be able to grow up to 16 plants per square meter without them getting tangled. The idea is to prune those branches that come out over the flowerpot, leaving just the main stem and 4 to 6 branches around the bottom. To make sure that it doesn’t end up doubling over with the weight you should wire or string it, and you’ll have 16 extremely productive plants where before you could only fit 9.

Doubling over branches to stop growth and increase strength:

If you take one of the branches on your plant and bend it slightly, it should form a sort of callus which will double the strength of the branch. The cells in your plant will make their way to the injury and they’ll strengthen the branch, allowing it to put up with much more weight. As well as not growing any more, the end bud will have heavier buds. All you have to do is bend the branch slightly, making sure not to go too far; if you actually break it then that’s that. If done correctly, you should end up with thick balls of buds and compact, strong plants. You’ll be able to grow less plants in your grow tent but with a higher production rate.

What not to do when pruning your plants:

Pruning is essentially cutting a part of your plant so that it can direct its strength to other parts that can absorb light easily. This doesn’t mean that you can prune any part of your plants like the large leaves so that the light can reach the lower parts. Leaves have an extremely important part to play in your plants’ lives; they’re kind of like solar panels for plants, and the buds are the batteries. If light hits the batteries they won’t charge, it needs to hit the panels so that the light can be turned into energy for your plants. This means that if you remove the leaves you’ll end up removing a lot of the strength from your plants, as they act like nutrient deposits; if your plants leaves aren’t receiving enough light the plant will automatically absorb all of the nutrients, leaving the leaf yellow and dead.

None of the leaves are disposable, even the smallest ones. Every single one is needed so that they grow properly. If you want to test this out yourself, trim one of the big leaves while your plant is still in the growth phase. You’ll notice how the branch carrying that leaf will stop growing, and branches with all of their leaves will continue growing without any issues. The same thing will happen to the buds; if you remove a leaf so that the lower buds can get more light, the higher buds will end up dwarfed and a lot less potent, when they would have been much bigger than the lower ones to begin with.

Another thing that you mustn’t do is prune your plants while they’re flowering. Plants need a few days to recover from prune-induced stress, and it takes a while to decide where the new branch or central stem is going to grow from. You’ll need to prune at least 15 days before you switch your plants to the growing period or before summer begins for outdoor crops. You need to prune during the growth period every time, or else the start of the flowering period may be compromised.

You can prune to change your plants’ shape, but never prune at the top to allow more light to reach the bottom; the top is always more productive than the bottom even if you want it to get more light. The logical thing to do would be to prune the bottom so that the top can produce even more.

If you’re looking to learn how to do other kinds of pruning, leave a comment and we’ll do our best to add it on to the article.