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sherbet weed strain

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Garlic Sherbert

Taste & Smell

Effects

  • Calm
  • Focused
  • Happy
  • Hungry
  • Sleepy

Pairs Well With

  • Arts & Crafts
  • Housework
  • Eating
  • Sleeping
  • Watching TV/Movies

About this Indica Strain

If Garlic Sherbert was the name of a dessert, I doubt many people would order it. But since it’s the name of a cannabis strain, it must mean this stinky hybrid packs a punch. With the THC of this strain often testing around 28%, this assumption is precisely correct. Leaning slightly more towards the Indica side, Garlic Sherbert comes from crossing Blue Sherbert with GMO, also known as Garlic Cookies.

The Garlic Sherbert buds consist of long and curled purple and dark-green leaves. It is hard to see them because they are covered in a coating of short, yellow-trichome hairs. These fuzzy, amber-patches and long, orange-pistils account for most of what can be seen.

This strain has a chemical odor, with gassy tones, along with hints of garlic and onion. A sweet berry-musk can be noted, even more so when combusted, along with a funky, garlicky aftertaste.

This high-powered Indica seems to charge the battery instantly, as some users reported a calm yet focused wave of motivation overcoming them. Despite the high THC content, users felt they were still able to be productive and remain focused while pain and anxiety were greatly reduced. Some users suggested that medical users, suffering from ADHD, PTSD, chronic pain, anxiety, and depression might benefit from the soothing qualities of Garlic Sherbet. After what was described as a clear-headed euphoria, most users saw a surprisingly gentle return to cruising altitude. Stimulation of appetite and a deeper sleep was reported by some users, making Garlic Sherbet a versatile hybrid that can serve a purpose in the morning or evening.

If Garlic Sherbert was the name of a dessert, I doubt many people would order it. But since it’s the name of a cannabis strain, it must mean this stinky hybrid packs a punch. With the THC of this strain often testing around 28%, this assumption is precisely correct. Leaning slightly more towards…

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when does the strain come back on 2021

New COVID ‘Super Strains’ Could Disrupt Life Again

Jan. 6, 2021 — After 10 months of masks, social distancing, virtual school, fear for vulnerable loved ones, and loneliness, this is the news no one wanted to hear: The virus that causes COVID-19 has changed — once again — in ways that make it more contagious.

At least one new “super strain” of the virus is already in the U.S. Another highly contagious strain from South Africa could be on its way. As bad as things are now, experts believe these new strains are not responsible for the spike in cases seen in many states as people fall ill after holiday travel.

The strains are about 50% more contagious than the virus that has been most widely circulating in the United States, though it doesn’t seem to be more fatal for any one person who catches it.

The danger of the new Covid variant isn’t that it’s more severe, but that it’s more contagious. If more people get infected, this will increase the burden on already-overwhelmed hospitals—and lead to more deaths.

— Dr. Tom Frieden (@DrTomFrieden) January 5, 2021

While that may seem reassuring, it could be disastrous on a wider scale. One public health expert believes the virus is changing itself to adapt and infect more people.

Another, Adam Kucharski, PhD, an associate professor at the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine who specializes in the math of infectious disease outbreaks, says the math shows the infectious strain will be more deadly.

Kucharski recently compared how many people would die after 10,000 new infections over the course of a month. With the current situation, with a virus that sees each patient infect an average of 1.1 others and kills .08% of everyone it infects, you’d predict 129 deaths over a month of spread. With a virus that’s 50% more deadly, you would expect to see about 193 deaths over a month of spread. With a virus that’s 50% more contagious, you end up with 978 more deaths over a month of spread — or five times as many deaths.

This means that unless the U.S. adjusts its response to the pandemic, and adjusts quickly, hospitalizations and deaths could reach terrifying peaks in this country over the next few weeks as the variant strains cause a new wave of infections here.

More Infections, More Deaths

Ashish Jha, MD, dean of the Brown School of Public Health, projected on Tuesday that as the new strains take hold in the U.S., they could cause an additional 10 million new infections by the end of February and as many as 150,000 more deaths.

“Without aggressive action to limit the spread of the virus, bolster health care systems around the country, and accelerate vaccine administration, Los Angeles offers a preview of what many communities are likely to experience over the coming months,” he said in a news release.

Hospitals in Los Angeles are severely constrained. On Monday, Los Angeles EMS crews were told to conserve oxygen, because of a shortage of portable oxygen tanks, and not to transport some patients to crowded hospitals if they could not restore their pulse.

Former FDA Commissioner Scott Gottlieb, MD, predicted Sunday on Face the Nation that the new strain would be responsible for the majority of new infections in this country by March.

“It’s a big deal for a world that’s already stretched trying to keep in control the old variant,” said Marc Lipsitch, PhD, a professor of epidemiology at Harvard’s T.H. Chan School of Public Health in a call with reporters on Tuesday.

“If we don’t change our control measures, once it becomes common, it will accelerate transmission considerably,” he said.

Tracing, Testing, Vaccinating

Lipsitch believes contact tracing efforts in the U.S. — which have been overwhelmed in many places by community spread of the virus — should pivot to focus just on breaking the chains of transmission caused by the new variants.

News of the variants has come as the administration of new vaccines has lagged in the U.S., further raising the worry that these strains will get a foothold before people can be protected against them.

Already, one new “super strain” of the virus is driving an alarming surge of COVID cases in Great Britain. On Monday, Prime Minister Boris Johnson — who had resisted tougher control measures for weeks — reluctantly ordered strict new lockdown measures in that country, following close behind similar moves in Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland.

Defending his actions against the economic harm they would cause, he said he had no choice but to lock down again as new cases threatened to overwhelm hospitals.

Once again, most children will stay home for school, and people have been asked not to leave home except to do a very limited number of essential tasks, like seeking health care or going grocery shopping.

A new report from Imperial College London found that a greater proportion of children were infected with the new strain, compared to the older version of the virus. It’s not clear yet if its mutations make it better at infecting children, or if younger people were just more likely to be exposed to it because kids have continued to go to school there, even as many adults have stayed home.

Seven States and Countng

One of the new super strains — the so-called U.K. variant — has been detected in six U.S. states, according to the CDC: Colorado, California, Georgia, New York, Florida, and Pennsylvania. One other state is still looking into cases and hasn’t made an announcement, according to Greg Armstrong, MD, director of advanced molecular detection at the CDC’s National Center for Emerging and Zoonotic Infectious Diseases. Armstrong thinks fewer than one in 200 COVID-19 cases in the U.S. are currently caused by mutated UK strain, but there’s some uncertainty around that number because the U.S. has done a limited number of gene tests on samples of the SARS-CoV2 virus.

His estimates are based on results from commercial testing companies Illumina and Helix, which have partnered with the CDC to look for the variant as they process COVID tests. Helix screened more than 2 million COVID tests for signs of the variant. They forwarded 158 samples to Illumina for further testing. Of those, 51 were positive for the UK variant. According to the companies, as of Jan. 6, 54 cases of the UK variant had been identified in the U.S.

Going forward, the plan is for Illumina to sequence the genomes of 1,000 samples per week to look for the UK variant and others.

Many people infected with the new variant have no history of travel, which suggests it is already being passed person-to-person in some areas.

Surging Before Variant

Still, experts believe this variant is not the main reason for the surges of cases in the U.S. The South African variant has not yet been detected in the U.S., though it has been in the U.K.

Commercial labs doing PCR testing for the virus are looking for cases where one of the three probes — or markers — they use to detect proteins in the spike of the virus is negative while the other two probes are positive.

These “s-gene dropouts” can happen with many versions of the virus that are circulating, not just the super strains. Labs then have to follow up with a test that reads all the genes in the virus to look for the signature mutations in the super strains.

The University of Washington is actively doing this genome sequencing to look for the U.K. strain, but it hasn’t found any cases out of 250 positive cases it screened last week, says Alex Greninger, MD, PhD, assistant director of the clinical virology laboratories at the University of Washington Medical Center.

Not All Mutations Are the Same

Viruses mutate all the time. Mutations are errors a virus makes when it copies itself. Coronaviruses mutate more slowly than most others because they have a built-in proofreading mechanism that corrects these errors.

But they can still change in ways that the proofreader doesn’t catch or fix.

Most of the time, these changes don’t make them more harmful. But sometimes a mutation makes for a competitive advantage, something that allows that version to outperform the viruses around it.

Because the new coronavirus has infected so many millions of people around the world, it has had more opportunity to mutate, and it is adapting to become better at infecting people.

“beast mode COVID” a most appropriate title for the variant that could render public health recommendations substantially futile during the winter months and turn the Pandemic into a race between Beast mode COVID and vaccination success.

— Paul A Sobotka, MD, FACC, FAHA (@sobotka_paul) January 5, 2021

Both the U.K. super strain and the super strain found in South Africa have the same mutation on their spike protein — called N501Y. But each strain developed the mutation independently. When you see things like that, Greninger says, it probably didn’t happen by chance. The virus is evolving in ways that make it better at infecting humans.

“To me, the dominant story of the U.K. variant right now, as it stands, is adaptation to humans,” he says.

The mutations on the viruses’ spike protein work together to make the virus more infectious, according to recent research by Rafael Najmanovich, PhD, a professor of systems and structural biology at the University of Montreal.

The spike proteins on the virus rotate between “open” and “closed” positions. They can attach to doors on our cells called ACE2 receptors only when they are in their open positions.

Najmanovich’s modeling shows new gene changes allow the spike proteins to stay open about 40% longer than the older versions of the virus, which means that each individual particle of virus is more likely to be able to infect our cells when we come into contact with it.

In theory, that means fewer copies of the virus — a smaller dose — is needed to make a person sick, though Najmanovich says this still needs to be proved in an experiment. His research has been published in a preprint article that has not yet been peer-reviewed.

Lockdowns, Restrictions Possible

Because the virus is becoming more potent, we will need stricter measures to control its spread.

In recent days, some public health experts, like former CDC Director Tom Frieden, MD, who now leads the nonprofit Resolve to Save Lives, said it might be a good idea for people to wear more protective masks — like surgical masks or N95 respirators, though these still may be in short supply across the country.

Lipsitch, at Harvard, said given the more contagious nature of the new variants, it’s more important than ever to stay home as much as possible, limit contact with those outside your household, and, he said, cut daily contacts by at least a third to slow the pace of new infections and once again flatten the curve.

It’s still not known whether the mutations will affect how well the approved vaccines work, but experts believe that because vaccines generate a big immune response in the body that acts against the virus in different ways, the new shots will probably still work, though pharmaceutical companies are running tests now to make sure.

Still, the vaccines won’t help if they aren’t made more widely available, more quickly.

Ultimately, the new strains could send kids back to virtual learning, just as schools in many areas were getting ready to reopen.

“If we’re not going to close other kinds of activities, we shouldn’t close schools, because schools are more important than almost anything else that we do in terms of what they produce and what they allow the rest of society to do,” Lipsitch said, but the virus many not give us a choice.

The new variants could prove to be disastrous on a wider scale. One public health expert believes the virus is changing itself to adapt and infect more people.

Another New Covid-19 Variant Discovered In L.A. Might Be Vaccine Resistant, Researcher Says; Strain First Identified In Denmark

Tom Tapp

Deputy Managing Editor

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Two days after the Los Angeles Public Health Department announced that the much-talked-about UK variant of Covid-19, known as B.1.1.7, had been identified in the region, the California Department of Public Health revealed that another lesser-known strain had been circulating in the county as well.

Known as L452R, the newly announced arrival was first identified in Denmark in March. It showed up in California as early as May.

Dr. Charles Chiu, a virologist and professor of laboratory medicine at UCSF who, in concert with state authorities, has been genetically sequencing test samples to identify new variants said early indications are the L452R might be less susceptible to the currently approved vaccines, but more investigation is needed.

Related Story

A Nationwide Mask Mandate Could Add $1 Trillion To The US GDP, According To UCLA Analysis

“This variant carries three mutations, including L452R, in the spike protein, which the virus uses to attach to and enter cells, and is the target of the two vaccines that are currently available in the United States,” said Dr. Chiu. A spike protein mutation could, then, interfere with the vaccine’s efficacy.

According to the California Department of Public Health, Santa Clara County has sequenced a large number of positive specimens collected from community testing sites and outbreaks in the county. The L452R was present in specimens from the community and from several large outbreaks, including outbreaks where very high numbers of people exposed contracted the virus.

“This variant was identified in several large outbreaks in our county,” said Santa Clara County Health Officer Dr. Sara Cody. She called that correlation “a red flag and must be investigated further.”

The new variant also has been detected in Los Angeles, Mono, Monterey, Orange, Riverside, San Francisco, San Bernardino, San Diego, San Luis Obispo, Humboldt and Lake counties. Because genomic sequencing is sparse, it is currently unknown how prevalent L452 is statewide, nationally or globally.

Dr. Chiu said L452R grew from about 3.8% of the samples he tested in late November 2020 through early December to more than 25.2% in late December through early January 2021.

And there might be another issue with vaccine efficacy.

California’s State Epidemiologist Dr. Erica Pan said on Sunday that a “higher than usual” number of people had apparent allergic reactions to a batch of Moderna’s vaccine at a San Diego-area clinic.

“Out of an extreme abundance of caution,” Pan recommended that clinics should stop using doses from that specific batch until it is investigated.

California received about 330,000 doses from the lot in question. That equates to approximately 10% of all vaccine distributed to date across the state.

On Monday, the state’s numbers were mostly down, which is good. There were just over 30,000 new cases, 201 new deaths, 20,968 virus patients hospitalized and 1,113 ICU beds available. That last figure is the lowest number of ICU beds available during the pandemic, which is worrying.

There is also the potentially more contagious UK variant, B.1.1.7., on the horizon. Los Angeles Public Health officials confirmed the first case of that strain in the area over the weekend.

Though Saturday may mark the strain’s first identified appearance in Los Angeles County, health officials said in recent weeks that it was very likely already circulating in L.A. B.1.1.7 had previously made its way through San Diego and San Bernardino Counties. Before that, the strain had been found in Colorado, where it made its U.S. landfall.

The CDC warned that the presence of B.1.1.7 may mark a new phase of “exponential growth” in total Covid-19 cases.

“Current projections by the experts predict that if left unchecked, this variant could dominate locally by March,” Los Angeles Public Health director Barbara Ferrer said on Friday.

We can now add to that the threat of a potentially vaccine-resistant strain, L452R, as well.

As a result, L.A. County officials have been discussing the possibility of new restrictions for the shutdown-weary county.

Subscribe to Deadline Breaking News Alerts and keep your inbox happy.

Known as L452R, the newly-announced strain was first identified in Denmark and now might account for up to 25% of the cases in California.

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growing weed in soil

How to Grow Cannabis in Soil

First-time growers often start by growing cannabis in soil. If you’ve grown other plants in soil and/or have maintained a soil garden, this may be the best choice for you because you will already be familiar with a lot of what you need to understand to grow cannabis in soil.

Avoid Miracle-Gro! Do not use “Miracle-Gro” soil or any soil that has “extended-release” nutrients for growing cannabis. These types of soil will continue to release nitrogen to your plant roots for up to 6 months. This can cause deficiencies or burn your cannabis plants in the flowering/budding stage, reducing your overall yields. I have seen growers successively grow cannabis in Miracle-Gro, but many of them struggled with nutrient problems in the flowering stage.

Soil Pros for Growing Cannabis

Many Already Have Soil Experience – Growing cannabis in soil is similar to growing plants like tomatoes or corn – soil growing may be the most intuitive option for you, especially if you already have gardening experience.

Simple – hand-water your plants in containers

Outdoor Growing – most outdoor growers choose to grow with soil. In the wild, cannabis grows in soil, so growing outdoors in soil is most like a cannabis plant’s natural environment. Many people find that when growing cannabis outdoors, soil is the simplest and most intuitive way to grow. Growing with composted “super soil” gives the grower the ability to grow outside without needing to add synthetic bottled nutrients or manage the pH of the soil.

Option 1: Store-Bought Soil + Nutrients – Growers can buy soil online or at a store, and simply add nutrients throughout their grow while watering for thriving, happy cannabis plants.

Option 2: Compost or Purchase “Super Soil” – For those who don’t want to worry about soil pH or adding nutrients throughout the grow, there is the option of amending and composting your own super soil (or buying it already composted) specifically made for cannabis plants. While this option takes more time before you start growing, it can be somewhat simpler especially for those who have composted soil in the past.

Note: Some growers believe growing in organic composted super soil with a rich microbial life can actually improve the taste and smell of cannabis by causing a plant to produce higher levels of terpenes and terpenoids.

Soil Cons for Growing Cannabis

Pests – Soil is an organic material, and there are many types of bugs that can live in soil. Often, soil-growers seem to suffer more often from pests attacking their plants than hydroponic growers.

Slower Growth – Growing in soil is not as fast as growing in a soilless or hydroponic setup – hydroponic plants tend to get better growth rates, especially in the vegetative stage.

Get Soil and a Container for Your Cannabis Plants

  • Common cannabis soil mixes include Fox Farms Happy Frog and Fox Farms Ocean Forest. Any high-quality organic soil mix will do in a pinch.
  • Avoid Miracle-Gro soil or anything with “extended-release” nutrients!
  • To improve drainage, it can be beneficial to add 30% perlite to aerate and loosen soil.
  • Common cannabis containers include classic plastic pots, terracotta pots, smart pots (fabric pots) and air-pots. Learn more about different types of containers

Soil growing probably requires the least effort of any growing method (especially if growing in super soil). Your main effort will be spent watering your plants.

Not sure which soil should you start with? I recommend starting with Fox Farms Happy Frog soil and mixing the soil with about 30-40% perlite for a perfect cannabis soil starting mix. For the easiest soil growing, get a smart pot (a growing container made out of fabric – they work perfectly for growing cannabis).

Don’t want to use nutrients? Learn how to mix up your own super soil so it has all the nutrients your cannabis plants will need! Bonus: With composted super soil made using the recipe in the link above, you don’t need to worry about maintaining your pH! your super soil will automatically manage the pH for you.

Maintenance Cost – After setup, the main maintenance will be replacing your soil every grow (highly recommended – reused soil often does not get great results even with added nutrients). Occasionally you will have to replace used containers that crack or break. You also need to think about the cost of electricity and replacing nutrients every few grows.

Maintenance Effort – Watering your plants, providing nutrients and managing the pH to prevent deficiencies (composted super soil has microorganisms in it to help manage pH and make nutrients available to your plant roots).

How long until harvest? Soil has relatively slower growth rates than hydroponic methods, but a tuned-in soil grow can achieve impressive growth rates if given a great environment and plenty of bright light. Most soil grows require 1-3 months of vegetative time (depending on how big you want your plants) plus 2-3 months of flowering/budding (depending on your strain).

Many growers feel that cannabis grown in organic super soil has the best smell/taste profile, though this is highly disputed among hydroponic growers 🙂

How long can grower be away? It’s important for a grower to always remain close by for their first grow, especially for inexperienced growers. Experienced growers can safely spend more time away from the garden.

Bigger containers hold more water and therefore give growers more time away, since constant watering isn’t needed. In the best-case scenario, it is always best to check on your plants at least once a day. You never know when a pest infestation will take hold, a plant will fall over, or some other unexpected event will happen.

Most Common Soil Mistake: Overwatering

The most common mistake made by beginners growing cannabis in soil is they water their plants too often. Overwatering is almost never a case of giving your plants too much water at once. Instead, overwatering cannabis in soil is almost always caused by giving the plant water too often.

How to water cannabis plants in soil

Wait until the top of your soil feels dry up to your first knuckle (about an inch deep)

Add nutrients to your water (if needed), then adjust the pH. The most common reason growers get nutrient deficiencies is because they don’t adjust the pH of their water. Most soil growers only add nutrients every other watering (or even less often), but even when giving just plain water you still need to adjust the pH of your water to prevent deficiencies.

Start watering your plants and continue to add water until you see at least 20% extra runoff water drain out the bottom of your pot. Go back to step 1.

Cannabis-Friendly Soil Nutrient Suggestions

For new nutrients you haven’t grown with before, always start at half-strength and raise the amount slowly. Do not use nutrients with every watering! Most growers will add nutrients every other watering or even less frequently. Remember, a little bit goes a long way. You can always add more nutrients later, but it’s a lot more difficult to take them back from the soil.

An easy and simple nutrient system for beginning cannabis soil growers is the Fox Farms Nutrient Trio for Soil.

The Fox Farms trio works great for growing any cannabis strain, without needing any additional supplements.

There are three different bottles that you will need to grow cannabis, “Grow Big,” “Big Bloom,” and “Tiger Bloom.” They are often sold together. Simply follow the included nutrient schedule (here’s a PDF, here’s a JPG) from Fox Farms.

Be aware there is a soil version because Fox Farms offers a hydroponic version of the same nutrient line. Though in my experience the hydroponic version also works just as well in soil 🙂

Nutrient Picks for Growing in Soil

    HydroOrganics Earth Juice Nutrients (Grow, Bloom) with the following supplements: Earth Juice Catalyst, Meta-K, MicroBlast & Hygrozyme (use as needed for roots)

This nutrient schedule was used to grow the following buds under a 250W LED.

Don’t Use Miracle-Gro or Other “Slow Release” Soils!

Say “No” to Miracle-Gro soil for growing cannabis!

Many of us have seen Miracle-Gro used around our homes, so we know that it works for ‘regular houseplants’. Cannabis is just a tough weed, so Miracle-Gro nutrients should work great for it, too… right?

No. Not really. Well kinda.

Standard Miracle-Gro nutrients (their all-purpose plant food) will work “just okay” for the vegetative stage of your plant’s growth, but anything with Miracle-Gro in it is a terrible choice for the flowering stage due to its high levels of Nitrogen. Using standard Miracle-Gro nutrients in the flowering stage will cause your buds to grow smaller than they could have, and they may possibly have a chemical taste from nutrient buildup in the plant tissue.

However, the real problem is Miracle-Gro’s “time-released” soil (or any type of extended-release spikes or soils that aren’t organic) which slowly release Miracle-Gro nutrients over the course of several months. These types of soil continue providing Nitrogen slowly throughout your plant’s life. That means your plant won’t be able to use up all the Nitrogen in the vegetative stage as it would with regular soil, again giving you the problem of too much Nitrogen in the flowering stage.

Basically, avoid giving your plants a lot of Nitrogen in the flowering stage! Anything that does that is not a good idea 🙂

General overview of soil growing. Get the pros and cons!

Choosing The Best Soil For Cannabis: A Home Grower’s Guide

Growing cannabis in soil is a great way to crop fat, flavoursome buds. Moreover, soil is one of the most forgiving substrates. What are the best soils for growing cannabis? What do you need to know if you want to make your own soil? Our guide answers these questions and more!

Home grower’s guide to the best soil for cannabis.

Contents:

When growing cannabis, using the right soil is crucial. Unfortunately, sourcing the best soil isn’t always straightforward. From cannabis-specific soils to bargain universal substrates and pre-fertilised types, the sheer amount of options can be overwhelming to novices. And what if you want to make your own soil from scratch?

Let’s talk about the best soil for growing cannabis.

WHAT’S THE BEST SOIL FOR GROWING WEED?

Not every soil is suitable for growing cannabis, and not all cannabis requires the same type of soil. Picking the optimal soil depends on the type of cannabis you’re growing, your climate, whether you’re growing at home or in the wild, etc.

Aside from these factors, there are some common traits among all cannabis soils. Let’s take a look at them:

Texture

Cannabis prefers a light and loose soil texture. A light texture promotes root development, and it ensures more oxygen reaches the roots for optimal growth and health.

Drainage ability

Cannabis soil needs to have excellent drainage. When you water your plants, it shouldn’t pool on top of the soil. If the soil has poor drainage, your plants will get sick and turn out subpar yields, or die.

Water retention

Just as important as good drainage is water retention, which is the soil’s ability to hold water. Good cannabis soil has an optimal balance of water retention and drainage.

pH value

pH is a chemical scale that indicates how acidic or alkaline something is. This is important, as cannabis only does well within a small pH range. A good soil for weed has a pH of about 6.0. A pH of 5.8–6.3 will be fine, but if it fluctuates too far outside of this range, you will get diminished yields. If the pH is seriously off, your plants will die.

Nutrients

Cannabis soil needs to contain nutrients so your plants can grow. Fortunately, almost all soils you can buy already feature them. Know, however, that these nutrients will often last only 3–4 weeks. Around the time your plants start to flower, the nutrients in commercial soils will likely be depleted. This is when you should begin to add nutrients.

If you’re growing without additional nutrients, your soil needs to contain organic substances such as humus, compost, worm castings, guano, etc. Microorganisms in the soil will turn these substances into nutrients for your plants to access on demand.

TRAITS OF QUALITY CANNABIS SOIL

If you’re using store-bought potting mixes, these are already optimally “tuned” for growing. Different story if you’re growing organically, though. Natural soil comes in four varieties: sandy, silty, loamy, and clay. But know that most soils consist of varying ratios of these soil types.

For example, a soil may be clay and loamy, or sandy and silty.

SANDY

Sandy soil is coarse with good drainage, but has poor water retention. When watered, nutrients such as nitrogen will also quickly get washed away. Sandy soil is easy to work with and is a viable choice for cannabis growers.

• Coarse structure
• Low pH
• Pros: Good drainage, keeps soil airy, high oxygen levels, easy to work with
• Cons: Poor water retention, needs frequent watering

SILTY

Silty soil is a medium-coarse soil type that’s rich in minerals and organic particles. Its water retention is good, yet it has adequate drainage. Silty soils are very easy to work with. The minerals and organic substances within make it one of the most fertile soil types.

• Medium-coarse
• Pros: Contains minerals and nutrients, retains water well
• Cons: Fair drainage

LOAMY

Loamy soil is a combination of sand, silt, and clay soils with added organic compounds. It is one of the best soil types for growing cannabis as it offers optimal water retention and drainage, and it’s rich in nutrients and oxygen. Downside: This type of soil can be expensive.

• Mixture of sand, silt, and clay
• Pros: Excellent water retention and drainage, contains nutrients, high oxygen levels
• Cons: Expensive

Clay soils consist of fine mineral particles. This type of soil is heavy and not easy to work with. It is very rich in nutrients and minerals, which makes it a good option to include in organic grows. Clay soil retains water well, but has poor drainage.

• Fine particle size
• High pH
• Pros: Rich in nutrients, retains water
• Cons: Poor drainage, heavy and compact, hard to work with

AMENDMENTS TO IMPROVE SOIL QUALITY

If you’re working with natural soil, chances are it won’t be perfect for growing cannabis—not from the start, at least. The texture may not be optimal or it may have poor drainage, for example. But you can improve any type of soil by adding amendments, most of which can be found in your local grow shop.

COCO COIR

Coco coir (coco fibre) is made from coconut husks. These light fibres provide excellent water retention and can lighten compact soils. Some use a pure coco substrate with special nutrients to cultivate their weed. But to amend existing soil, it’s a good idea to add anywhere up to 30% coco coir, depending on the composition of your base soil.

PERLITE

Perlite is the most widely used soil amendment. Perlite consists of very light, bright-white rocks that greatly improve the drainage and airiness of the soil. Perlite also has decent water retention. To amend your soil with it, add 10–15% of perlite. You can add more, but then your soil may become too light and nutrients may leach out. Good-quality commercial soils often come with added perlite.

CLAY PEBBLES

Most cannabis growers are familiar with using clay pebbles as part of a hydroponic setup. But did you know they can also be used to enhance soil structure? Adding clay pebbles to the bottom of your raised beds and containers will assist with drainage and prevent water from pooling at the base—a large risk factor when it comes to root rot.

Growers can also add clay pebbles to the top of containers and beds to serve as a mulch. Here, they help to trap moisture in the growing medium by preventing excess evaporation. Clay pebble mulch also casts shade over the top layer of soil, suppressing weeds and keeping beneficial microbes sheltered from the hot rays of the sun.

VERMICULITE

Vermiculite, just like perlite, is a heat-treated mineral you can use to make your soil lighter.It is also excellent at retaining water. Although vermiculite shares some characteristics with perlite, the two have opposite uses: Use perlite to increase drainage and airiness, and use vermiculite to increase water retention. Luckily, you can use both, as perlite and vermiculite work well together. Around 10% vermiculite is beneficial.

WORM CASTINGS

Worm castings are normally seen more as a nutritional soil amendment as they contain a plethora of useful microorganisms that benefit growth. But worm castings will also improve the texture, drainage, and water retention of your soil. When amending your soil with worm castings, use about 25–30%.

NUTRIENTS

If your DIY cannabis soil is rich in organic material, you will likely not need to add nutrients to it. As a matter of fact, some growers make the mistake of adding manure and vegetable scraps to their soil to “fertilise” it. This results in soil getting “too hot” for the plants, hurting their development in turn. If you want to put your vegetable scraps to good use in your garden, you first need to compost them.

If you think you need to amend your cannabis soil with nutrients, you can easily purchase bottled solutions tailored to a plant’s phase of growth.

PHOTOPERIOD VS AUTOFLOWERING

One factor to consider when choosing the right soil for your weed is whether you’re growing photoperiod or autoflowering plants. Autoflowers prefer a light mix with fewer added nutrients. A great substrate for your autoflowering ladies is a 50:50 mix of coco coir and a light, peat-based soil with some added perlite for drainage.

When growing autoflowers, stay away from heavily fertilised soils and certain amendments like bat guano, as these will be too hot and overload your plants with nutrients. The same is true for cannabis seedlings, which do not like high levels of nutrients.

Plant autoflowers in their final growing container in a cup-sized hole in the centre of the soil. Fill the hole with seedling/starter soil with no nutrients and place your seed in it. This way, your seedling can grow without being surrounded by the hot soil, which would otherwise burn it.

For photoperiod plants, start them out in small seedling pots/cups with soil that has little to no nutrients. Replant after a few weeks. More mature plants will tolerate higher nutrient levels much better than seedlings.

STORE-BOUGHT VS HOMEMADE

If you’ve just started growing cannabis, it may be best to simply get ready-made soil from the grow store. The reason for this is that good-quality cannabis soil normally contains everything your plants need for healthy growth, in the optimal ratios. If you want, you can further improve your store-bought soil with a handful of perlite for increased drainage, but otherwise you should be good.

BASIC CANNABIS SOIL RECIPE

On the other hand, there may come a time when you want to make your own soil. After all, why spend good money on soil if your homemade version is even better? Here is a recipe for a basic homemade cannabis soil.

INGREDIENTS

• 1 part vermiculite
• 1 part coco coir peat
• 2 parts compost
• ½–1 cup worm castings (or humus)

DIRECTIONS

1. Sieve the compost to remove larger chunks.
2. Soak the coco coir peat in warm water. Check the directions of the product to see what kind of volume you will be getting.
3. Use a bucket and mix the coco coir peat with the vermiculite.
4. Add the compost.

Done! Double-check the pH value of your homemade soil. It should be in the range of 5.8–6.3.

The above is a basic soil recipe that will serve you well for most grows, indoors and outdoors. But you can further enhance your soil mix by adding organic fertilisers.

Bat guano is an excellent and inexpensive organic fertiliser for flowering marijuana. You can add it to a soil mix or spread it on the topsoil and water in later. You can also look into time-release nutrients such as Easy Boost Organic Nutrition pellets. Add a cup of these to your soil to feed your plants for their whole life cycle—100g is enough for 2–3 cannabis plants. All that’s left to do is water!

NO-TILL CULTIVATION

No-till cultivation is a gardening method that allows the soil to remain undisturbed (no digging, stirring, overturning, etc.). This way, microorganisms in the soil can create a thriving ecosystem that replenishes the soil with good bacteria, helpful fungi, and other living organisms. No-till cultivation promotes organic matter retention and water absorption because nutrients are constantly being recycled throughout the soil.

To learn about no-till cultivation and its benefits, check out this article!

AMENDMENTS FOR ARID/DROUGHT CONDITIONS

If you’re growing outdoors in a hot climate such as Southern Spain or a similar location, you don’t want to “cook” the root zone of your plants. If you’re using pots, choose white plastic containers, as these help to keep the soil temperature at a reasonable level under the beating sun. You can also look to air pots or smart pots to keep the roots of your cannabis plants cool. As an additional measure to protect the soil from fluctuating temperatures, you can add layers of dry straw onto the topsoil.

If you’re growing in drought conditions where your plants may at times go weeks without rain, or if you can’t make daily trips to your guerrilla grow location, use water-absorbent polymers to keep them hydrated! You can get these from hydroponic grow stores or can cut them out of diapers.

For a guerrilla grow in dry conditions, dig a hole about 60cm deep and 30cm in diameter. Add a few cups of polymer crystals to the bottom of the soil mix and fill up with the remaining soil. Place your plant into the soil and water liberally. As your plant grows, the roots will soon reach the polymers so it can drink even during drought. Tip: Soak the polymers in a light nutrient solution for a double benefit!

Soil is the medium of choice for most cannabis cultivators. Here is what you need to know to get the most out of your soil grow!

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alien pie strain

Apple Pie

breed by Alien Genetics

Here you can find all info about Apple Pie from Alien Genetics. If you are searching for information about Apple Pie from Alien Genetics, check out our Basic Infos or Lineage / Genealogy for this cannabis variety here at this page and follow the links to get even more information – or list all Apple Pie Strains (2) to find a different version. If you have any personal experiences with growing or consuming this cannabis variety, please use the upload links to add them to the database!

Basic / Breeders Info

Apple Pie is an indica/sativa variety from Alien Genetics and can be cultivated indoors and outdoors . Alien Genetics’ Apple Pie is a THC dominant variety and is/was never available as feminized seeds.

Lineage: Slymer x Sour Apple IBL

Apple Pie Lineage / Genealogy

  • Apple Pie »»» Slymer x Sour Apple IBL
  • Slymer
    • »»» Chernobly x Creamsicle
    • Chernobly
      • »»» Blood Wreck x Jack the Ripper
      • Blood Wreck
        • »»» Trainwreck x Trinity
        • Trainwreck
          • USA »»» Indica/Sativa Hybrid
        • Trinity 3-way hybrid
          • USA, Kalifornien »»» Mostly Sativa
      • Jack the Ripper
        • »»» Jacks Cleaner x Space Queen
        • Jacks Cleaner
          • »»» x Jack Herer
          • Pluton x Lambsbread x Purple Haze x Northern Lights
            • Pluton »»» Unknown Strain
            • Lambsbread
              • Jamaica Probably Sativa »»» Sativa
            • Purple Haze Probably
              • Haze Purple Pheno
                • »»» Mexico x Colombia x Thailand x India
                • Mexico »»» Sativa
                • Colombia »»» Sativa
                • Thailand »»» Sativa
                • India »»» Sativa
            • Northern Lights
              • »»» NL #1 x NL #2 x NL #5
              • NL #1 IBL
                • Afghanistan »»» Indica
              • NL #2
                • Northern Lights
                  • Afghanistan Indica Probably »»» Indica
              • NL #5
                • USA, Kalifornien »»» Mostly Indica
          • Jack Herer
            • »»» Haze x
            • Northern Lights #5 x Shiva Skunk
              • Northern Lights #5 (specified above)
              • Shiva Skunk
                • Northern Lights 5 x Skunk #1 F-1 Hybrid F1
                  • »»» Northern Lights #5 x Skunk #1 F1
                  • Northern Lights #5 (specified above)
                  • Skunk #1
                    • Skunk #1
                      • »»» Afghanistan x Mexico x Colombia
                      • Afghanistan »»» Indica
                      • Mexico »»» Sativa
                      • Colombia »»» Sativa
            • Haze
              • O Haze (specified above)
        • Space Queen
          • »»» Romulan x C-99
          • Romulan
            • Unknown Mostly Indica British Columbia »»» Mostly Indica
          • C-99
            • »»» Princess x P94
            • Princess
              • »»» Jack Herer x Mystery Male
              • Jack Herer (specified above)
              • Mystery Male »»» Unknown Strain
            • P94
              • »»» Princess x Cinderella 88
              • Princess (specified above)
              • Cinderella 88
                • »»» Princess x P.75
                • Princess (specified above)
                • P.75
                  • »»» Princess x P.50
                  • Princess (specified above)
                  • P.50
                    • »»» Princess x Shiva Skunk
                    • Princess (specified above)
                    • Shiva Skunk (specified above)
    • Creamsicle
      • »»» Cream Carmel x Carmalicious
      • Cream Carmel
        • »»» BlueBlack x Maple Leaf Indica x White Rhino
        • BlueBlack
          • Unknown Strain
        • Maple Leaf Indica
          • Ortega
            • Afghanistan Mazar-I-Sharif »»» Indica
        • White Rhino
          • »»» White Widow x Afghanistan
          • White Widow
            • White Widow
              • »»» Brazil x India
              • Brazil »»» Sativa
              • India »»» Indica
          • Afghanistan »»» Indica
      • Carmalicious
        • »»» Maple Leaf Indica x Afghan Kush
        • Maple Leaf Indica (specified above)
        • Afghan Kush
          • Hindu Kush Afghanistan »»» Indica
  • Sour Apple IBL probably
    • Sour Apple
      • »»» Original Diesel x Cinderella 99
      • Original Diesel
        • »»» Chemdawg x
        • MassSuperSkunk x SensiNL
          • MassSuperSkunk
            • Super Skunk Probably
              • »»» Skunk #1 x Afghanistan
              • Skunk #1
                • Skunk #1 (specified above)
              • Afghanistan »»» Indica
          • SensiNL (specified above)
        • Chemdawg
          • Unknown Indica »»» Indica
      • Cinderella 99 (specified above)

Map of the Apple Pie Family Tree

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Comparisons

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Medical Values

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Apple Pie breed by Alien Genetics Here you can find all info about Apple Pie from Alien Genetics . If you are searching for information about Apple Pie from Alien Genetics, check out our

Alien Moon Pie

Taste & Smell

  • Earthy
  • Fruity
  • Sour

Effects

  • Calm
  • Happy
  • Hungry
  • Sleepy

Pairs Well With

  • Eating
  • Sleeping
  • Spa
  • Watching TV/Movies

About this Hybrid Strain

Alien Moon Pie sounds more like a dessert than a cannabis strain.Originally bred by In House Genetics, is an indica-dominant hybrid, created by crossing Alien Moon Shine (aka “Aliens on Moonshine”) with Black Cherry Pie.It has a reputation for being a potent strain.For example, our batch was grown by Superior Cannabis and tests at about 24% THC!

This strain’s name is quite fitting, as it is a unique appearance and looks like it comes from another planet.Alien Moon Pie buds are thick and sticky, with coiled lime and fern-green leaves.The buds are absolutely drenched in webs of white crystal-trichomes, as if cotton has been strung around them, and then littered with orange furry pistils.The thick, cotton-like, trichome strands are tinted with a shade of light-orange from the pistils blended within them.

Alien Moon Pie has an earthy odor, smelling like pine and basil, with a hint of citrus.The flavor is similar, and even offers a tangy grapefruit aftertaste.

Despite the indica dominance of Alien Moon Pie, many users are reporting a stimulating cerebral euphoria.Even more however, say they experience relief from chronic pain and tension related disorders such as menstrual cramps, migraines, spasming, and anxiety.The dominant terpene by far is Beta Myrcene, with supporting amounts of Limonene and Alpha Pinene.Many believe this unique terpene synergy has a sedative effect on the body’s nervous system, and works as a powerful anti-inflammatory.This has led to remarkable reductions in chronic pain by some users’ reports.Many say the sedative effect seems to cross over to the mind, suggesting they found relief from anxiety and depression.

Just be careful not to eat yourself into a food coma, as Alien Moon Pie reportedly has the capacity to lead to some ravenous munchies.

Alien Moon Pie sounds more like a dessert than a cannabis strain.Originally bred by In House Genetics, is an indica-dominant hybrid, created by crossing Alien Moon Shine (aka "Aliens on Moonshine") with Black Cherry Pie.It has a reputation for being a potent strain.For example, our batch…

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growing bonsai from seed step by step

Starting a Bonsai From Seed

Introduction: Starting a Bonsai From Seed

Most Bonsai take years to train before you can call them finished so this is not the hobby for an impatient person. The only good part is other than watering you only touch them about once every couple months so they can recover from pruning. Trees and shrubs that need to winter can go for four to six months when you winter them. This gives you time for other things in your life.

Larger Bonsai can be trained from nursery stalk, but smaller Bonsai one hand or less can be easier to train from seedlings and seed stalk.

I had 10 one handed Bonsai, (5 to 8 inches tall) at one time. Most were North American trees that I started as seeds or seedlings. My oldest Bonsai was a Japanese White Pine I had been training for 10 years.

I went through a great deal of work getting an Oak, a Maple, and a Willow, started when I lost all my Bonsai. Our goat got into where I was wintering my Bonsai and ate all of them to the point every tree died. So keep your pets and other animals away from your Bonsai, or kiss your Bonsai good bye. For this reason I grow my Bonsai indoors.

Step 1: Tree Selection

Although I have raised broad leaved Bonsai, pine trees, juniper, and other conifers, with small foliage make great Bonsai that remain green year round. For this Instructable I am going to raise a White Spruce pine Bonsai from seed. Its small needles and cones make it ideal for a midsize or larger Bonsai, (10 inches and up). I am going to try to keep it less than 10 inches.

This 2 year old 2 inch tall seedling shows the beginning of a White Spruce’s development. The first year’s growth is a single stem, and at the end of the first years growth sprouts the second years growth usually 3 stems.

Since Bonsai take years I will show pruning a four year old Cedar in the last step.

Step 2: Seed Collection

Find a tree you like, look for a tree that has the traits you want in your Bonsai, and gather mature cones from the tree, they should be brown but not fully open. Green cones are immature and the seeds may not be fully developed, and open cones can lose their seeds to falling out and birds.

Other than rain forests, many conifers have a symbiotic relationship with fire and the white Spruce is no different. Spruce trees like many other pine trees, needs a forest fire to spread their seeds most of the time.

They start to produce cones when they are quite tall, 15 to 20 feet tall, the cone starts off small and green in the spring and grow during the summer turning brown in the fall. The mature cones look much like the skin of an Armadillo. The cones protect the seeds from birds and stay on the tree for a couple years until they open and fall off the tree or a forest fire opens them.

In a forest fire the heat from the fire causes the cone to open and after the fire passes the seeds fall to the ground replanting the forest to grow until the next forest fire. I am going to use the same process to harvest my seeds.

Place the cones in a dish and bake them in the oven at 350⁰, this will open the cones so you can just tap the cones hard to make the seeds fall out.

Step 3: Separating the Seeds

Since the spruce cones are only the size of a peanut, instead of tapping them on a hard surface I placed a hand full of open cones in a jar, and shook the jar until I could see the seeds collecting on the bottom of the jar.

Then I dumped the contents of the jar in a bowl and separated the cones from the seeds.

I repeated this process until I had all the seeds from the cones, don’t worry if you have what might appear to be too many seeds. Not all the seeds will germinate when you plant them and some of the seedlings will just plane fail. You can clean off the chaff and drop the seeds in water then plant only the seeds that sink, but unless you want to improve your chances of cluster seedlings it is not necessary. (Cluster Seedlings are seedlings growing close together.)

Step 4: Nursery Planting

In a nursery they place the seeds in starter trays, once the trees sprout they are transplanted to a growing field, and once they are ready for market they are transplanted to pots for sale.

When planted this way the taproot grows down and the secondary roots grow out from the taproot supplying the tree with nourishment. In a young tree the taproot can be as long as the tree is tall. This makes working with wild or nursery stalk challenging because to make these trees into a Bonsai you need to cut back the taproot.

Cutting back the taproot takes time, if you take too much of the taproot you kill the tree because you won’t have enough secondary roots supplying the tree with nourishment.

Start by cutting no more than a third of the taproot and pruning back a third to half of the foliage, with less foliage the roots don’t need to supply as much nourishment, and let the tree grow and recover from pruning.

Repeat this process as many times as necessary until your root bundle is the size you need for your finish pot, then train the top of your tree if need be.

Step 5: Shallow Planting the Seeds

I start with a shallow tray and place the seeds on the bottom of the tray, and then I put an inch of topsoil on top of the seeds and water. This causes the taproot to grow horizontally and the stalk or trunk of the seedling to grow upwards.

This type of planting is training your Bonsai from germination and you don’t have to cut back the taproot as drastically. Almost the entire root cutting is the ends of the secondary root tips and you are able to plant the tree in a shallow dish right from the start of training. You are able to train the trees top in its first year if you want, and you can make the smallest of Bonsai, Poppy-Seed Bonsai. (Bonsai 1 to 3 inches tall.)

Step 6: Pruning a Three Year Old Cedar

I started these cedars four years ago, the two of them were close enough they looked like one tree. I am going to lock them together so that in time they will grow into one tree giving me a tree trunk that looks twisted.

The tools I will be using are grooming tools, a pair of side cutting nail trimers, a long tweezers, and a pair of nail scissors.

After removing the unwanted foliage you can clearly see the two trunks and the horizontal taproots.

Last using the remaining foliage I locked the two trunks together so that in time they would become one.

Starting a Bonsai From Seed: Most Bonsai take years to train before you can call them finished so this is not the hobby for an impatient person. The only good part is other than watering you only touch them about once every couple months so they can recover from pruning. Trees …

Growing Bonsai from seed

The Japanese term, “Misho,” refers to the practice of growing Bonsai from tree seeds. It can be a very rewarding process that allows you to grow a plant as a Bonsai tree from the very beginning, although it does demand a great amount of patience. It takes a minimum of three years before seedlings mature enough to start shaping, but it’s advantageous, as you have full control over your Bonsai tree from the beginning. Misho is the only real way to grow a Bonsai right from the start!

To get started, you need to get your hands on some tree seeds. You can collect seeds from trees in your surroundings or you can choose to buy them at an online shop. Keep in mind that Bonsai are created from normal trees, so there is no such thing as special “Bonsai tree seeds”.

Creating your Bonsai from seeds collected in your local area ensures that they will be in their ideal climate and are more likely to thrive. Locally sourced seeds should be planted during Autumn for the best results. However, if you want to plant local seeds out of season, purchase seeds online, or plant foreign seeds that come from a different climate, it may be necessary to use stratification techniques.

Stratification

Stratification is the process of treating seeds to simulate the natural growing conditions that they need to germinate. Seeds of many tree-species are genetically programmed to survive through winter and germinate in early spring. This helps them maximize the duration of their first growing season. Most of these seeds can grow only after a cold period.

So, when you’re planting seeds for Bonsai that are from different climates, or you’re planting out of season, it may be necessary to simulate a cold season to increase the germination rate. Most tree-species will require you to soak their seeds in water before storing them in your refrigerator for one or two months. The exact amount of time and optimal temperature depends on the tree-species. A quick online search will provide you with an exact answer.

For beginners, this process may be too advanced, so we advise you to collect seeds from tree species in your area, keep the seeds outside and plant them in early spring, just like Mother Nature does!

Video: Growing trees from ‘Bonsai tree seeds’

Where do I find seeds?

As previously mentioned, you can collect seeds during autumn from local trees growing in your area. Chestnuts and acorns are easy seeds to find in the forest. Conifers seeds are found inside pine-cones. When you’ve collected the pine-cones, store them somewhere warm so they release their seeds from in between their scales. Seeds of various tree species are also easily available for purchase in online Bonsai shops.

When should I sow my seeds?

The best time to sow your seeds is in the autumn to align with nature’s schedule. This gives young seedling the full summer to grow after germinating in spring, and it means you don’t have to worry about stratification.

From seedling to Bonsai

Before we start propagating seed, it’s important to know the seedlings stages of development first. Growing Bonsai from seeds will be a test of your patience, but it’s a great way to style Bonsai trees without the need to prune thick branches, as you would when styling Yamadori or nursery stock. Read the “Bonsai styling” section for more detailed information on wiring and pruning techniques.

To give you a quick visual journey of a tree’s growth, here are six images of a Criptomeria tree that was grown from seed into Bonsai over the course of 15 years. Many thanks to Jose Ontañón for sharing these inspiring images.

Growing Bonsai from tree seeds can be very rewarding and gives you full control from the earliest stage possible. Although it takes a long time (at least three years) before

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new york power diesel strain

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New York Power Diesel

breed by Nirvana Seeds

Here you can find all info about New York Power Diesel from Nirvana Seeds. If you are searching for information about New York Power Diesel from Nirvana Seeds, check out our Basic Infos, Degustation, Strain Reviews, Shop-Finder and Price Comparison, Lineage / Genealogy or User Comments for this cannabis variety here at this page and follow the links to get even more information – or list all New York Power Diesel Strains (2) to find a different version. If you have any personal experiences with growing or consuming this cannabis variety, please use the upload links to add them to the database!

Basic / Breeders Info

New York Power Diesel is a mostly sativa variety from Nirvana and can be cultivated indoors (where the plants will need a flowering time of ±70 days ) and outdoors . Nirvanas New York Power Diesel is a THC dominant variety and is/was never available as feminized seeds.

Nirvanas New York Power Diesel Description

A sensational and radical new marijuana mix, NYPD (New York Power Diesel) is an F1 hybrid of our former Sativa Mexicana seeds and a specially stabilized Aurora Indica. The latter’s heavy, greasy narcotic buzz beautifully takes the edge off the crispness and speedy effect of the former. NYPD’s shockingly powerful terpenoids result in a marijuana with a lemony flavor and the diesel-like aroma that inspired its name. Its plants grow tall stems with a surprisingly tight bud structure. The amount of dry marijuana these seeds produce is not overwhelming, but definitely still worthwhile!

Plant Height Tall
Average Yield 400 – 500 g/m² in SOG
Flowering Period 9 – 11 weeks
Seeds per pack 10
THC High
CBD Medium
Effect+ Euphoric Uplifted Tingly
Flavor+ Earthy Citrus Diesel
Medical+ Stress Pain Cramps

Where to buy New York Power Diesel cannabis seeds?

New York Power Diesel from Nirvana Seeds is available as regular and feminized seeds. In 1 seedbanks, we found 3 offers between EUR 20.00 for 10 regular seeds and EUR 50.00 for 10 feminized seeds. If you are looking to buy New York Power Diesel Cannabis Seeds from Nirvana Seeds somewhere – have a look to our New York Power Diesel Price Comparison page with all current offers from all the connected seedbanks and shops – or visit one of the following tested, trustworthy and recommended seed-shops directly to check out their current New York Power Diesel offers: Linda Seeds | Linda Semilla.

New York Power Diesel Reviews

We’ve collected strain info from 2 growers for New York Power Diesel, check out the reviews about the indoor and outdoor grow here.

New York Power Diesel breed by Nirvana Seeds Here you can find all info about New York Power Diesel from Nirvana Seeds . If you are searching for information about New York Power Diesel from

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sweet tea weed strain

Sweet Tea

Taste & Smell

  • Fruity
  • Sweet

Effects

  • Calm
  • Focused
  • Creative
  • Happy

Pairs Well With

  • Arts & Crafts
  • Housework
  • Exercising
  • Exploring Nature
  • Going Out
  • Walking in the City
  • Yard Games
  • Yoga

About this Hybrid Strain

Sweet Tea is a popular style of tea, seen in the United States, where sugar is added to tea, and is usually served cold. Lemon is most commonly added, although peach and raspberry are often used too.

Originally bred by the late great legendary breeder “Subcool” (David Bowman), Sweet Tea was created by first crossing California Orange with Alcatraz OG. Females of this were then crossed with “The Dude,” a highly regarded Space Queen male. The result is a potent and tasty sativa-dominant masterpiece to add to “The Dank” collection. Our particular batch of Sweet Tea came from Cookies, with an impressive 26% THC level!

The Sweet Tea buds are made up of dense and chunky forest and lime-green leaves, scattered with long and wavy orange-pistils. The buds are encased in fuzzy amber-trichomes, lending furry patches of yellow, that compliment the orange beautifully.

Breaking the Sweet Tea buds open releases a bold, cedar aroma, with hints of orange-citrus. Combusting this strain brings out the sugary, candy taste, reminiscent of sweet tea flavored candy.

By the time the first hit is released, users report an instantaneous effect, with the sugary aftertaste triggering colorful memories of sipping some ice-cold sweet tea on a hot summer day. Users say the stimulation of the mind and imagination offers them assistance in staying focused and productive. They report a blissful euphoria that helps to slash stress, and unload the weight of unnecessary worry. This remarkable effect on mood and energy is why some suggest Sweet Tea as a great daytime choice for those suffering from anxiety, chronic-pain, chronic fatigue, depression, PTSD, and ADHD. They describe the numbing body-buzz and enhanced mind-muscle connection aren’t sedating, and may make physical activities and exercise classes more bearable or enjoyable. This tasty and versatile hybrid could be enjoyed anytime, although most users preferred to use it early in the day.

The Sweet Tea flower can be found at dispensaries in the United States, under the Cookies banner. Seeds are also readily available as it is part of Subcool’s, “The Dank” family. Sweet Tea is a tall and lanky plant that will need plenty of space to grow, and is better suited for growing outdoors. It is an average yielder, with about an 8-week flowering period.

Sweet Tea is a popular style of tea, seen in the United States, where sugar is added to tea, and is usually served cold. Lemon is most commonly added, although peach and raspberry are often used too. Originally bred by the late great legendary breeder “Subcool” (David Bowman), Sweet Tea…

Sweet tea weed strain

Sweet Tea Strain

Indica Dominant Hybrid – 65% Indica / 35% Sativa
THC: 23% – 24%

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Very good strain to end the day with, a well-done piece of flower!

Smoking on some sweet tea from “Cookies”. Sugary buttery taste with the slightest hint of orange. Very nice. My batch is burning all white ash. Easy to smoke. The high doesn’t jolt you, instead It slowly folds over you like a blanket of thc and is a very zen like calm. It’s extremely pleasing. After smoking a joint of this nothing will bother you. It’s like laying out in the sun sippin on some sweat tea. ✌️ Smoke up

had this in RSO. complete relief when i had the cold with a post nasal drip. i used a decent sized drop on my tongue. 30 minutes later i could breath without a cough and no drip in the back of my throat. slept all night though as well. just a hint of thc to brighten my spirit. really great medication.

had this in RSO. complete relief when i had the cold with a post nasal drip. i used a decent sized drop on my tongue. 30 minutes later i could breath without a cough and no drip in the back of my throat. slept all night though as well. just a hint of thc to brighten my spirit. really great medication.

Sweet Tea is an indica dominant hybrid strain (70% indica/30% sativa) or (65% indica/35% sativa) created through crossing the classic Cali-O X Alcatraz OG X Space Queen strains. Named for its insanely delicious flavor, Sweet Tea will have you begging for more with just one tasty little toke. This…

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shortest sativa strain

The Five Shortest Autoflower Strains – A Fast Buds Guide

Bigger is not always better. A supersized Sativa may look great in photos, but what do you do when it starts to outgrow its tent? Get a bigger tent? Well, then how do you discreetly place that in your home? Nobody wants law enforcement banging their door down because their pot plant was too big to hide.

If you value stealthiness or have limited space, autoflowering cannabis seeds grow compact and shorter, and can still provide you with big yields and potent flowers. Instead of growing like trees, these strains grow like squat bushes packed with dense buds. Sometimes referred to as dwarf cannabis, modern autoflowers offer staggering yields and award-winning, high-THC buds within 10-weeks of planting. With that in mind, let’s kick off our list at number 5!

For each strain, we’ve included a link to a grow report/grow diary that illustrates one way (of many) to successfully grow each variety. Check out our grow tips.

5. Green Crack Auto 24-35 inches

Who wants to get hyped! No strain provides a rush like Green Crack (sometimes called Green Crush). The original version of this legendary strain comes in both Sativa-dominant and Indica-dominant varieties. Fast Buds’ Autoflowering version is an almost perfect 50/50 hybrid that gives the rush of a Sativa, while the Indica relaxation eliminates paranoia and nervousness.

Topping out at 35 inches, or 90 centimeters, The small bushy Green Crack still offers massive yields, as you can see from the picture above. Green Crack offers a smooth, balanced experience, and fits nicely in a closet or any kind of stealth grow box.

The shortest autoflowering strains for stealthy growers or those who have limited space.

Use LST to Grow a Short Sativa

Key Takeaway: You Can Use LST (Low Stress Training) to Force Any Marijuana Plant to Grow Into Any Shape You Want

LST allows you to train your marijuana plants to grow into basically any shape.

This gives you the power to force any strain to grow short, giving you the ability to grow a short Sativa or Haze, strains which normally grow too tall and stretchy to get good yields indoors.

To do this, you physically force the plant by providing no other options. You actually bend and gently manipulate your plants to grow into your desired shape, like an artist or scuptor.

You can use basically anything to tie plants down.

I highly recommend getting a spool of twisty tie or garden wire (soft, bendable wire, specifically made for the garden) to tie your plants down with. Garden wire is soft and pliable, yet strong. This allows you to quickly hook the wire around branches and secure the other end to whatever you want, without hurting your plants.

Yet you don’t need special garden wire to be successful. You can use anything from string to paper clips.

Feel free to get creative! After you attach one end to the part of the plant you want to train, the other end can be tied to weights, to the pots your plants are in, your hydroponics bucket, or most anything.

In the best case scenario, you want to keep everything self-contained, so you can easily move your plant around later.

Here’s the low-down on how to LST your plant…

How to LST

View the complete article with step-by-step pictures and explanation of each step here: https://www.growweedeasy.com/lst-low-stress-training

Step 1: Top or FIM your young plant when she’s only got 3-5 nodes.

This sets the stage for further LST

Step 2: Spread out your branches so they lie flat and secure them.

Especially in the very beginning, think of creating a “star” shape with your plant. The branches should be gently pulled down to lay as flat as possible.

Step 3: Supercrop your plants (optional)

Step 4: Repeat Steps 2 & 3 throughout Vegetative stage and into first few weeks of Flowering Stage

If you’ve LST’ed properly during the vegetative stage, your plant will naturally grow rows of colas along the top of whatever shape plant you’ve created.

As you continue to spend time training and observing your plants, you’ll gain an even better understanding of how marijuana plants grow.

LST is more of an art form than a science, and it’s time for you to bring out your inner artist!

Interested in LED grow lights?

LED grow lights are supposed to be the “wave of the future,” yet why is it so hard to get real information about them?

Do they even work?

What kind of yields can I expect?

Will they save me money in the long run?

If you’ve asked yourself these questions about LED grow lights…

Check out this week-by-week grow journal of the Pro-Grow X5-300 LED grow light and get your questions answered today!

  • Dozens of pictures
  • Video Updates
  • Notes from the grower and
  • Final yield weights

You get to experience the entire life of three marijuana plants under a single LED grow light…

Learn how to force your plants to grow in any shape you want…

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infused seeds

Open 1.1.0: TT Infused Seeds recipe only makes Aer?

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Jorvalt
New Member

What is the bug:
For some reason, the infusion recipe for Infused Seeds will only produce Aer seeds, no matter what shards I use. I haven’t tried all of the shards yet, but so far I’ve tried both entropy and water shards and they both produce Aer seeds.

Mod & Version:
Thaumic Tinkerer

Can it be repeated:
Yes. All you have to do to see for yourself is make the infusion recipe for Infused Seeds with any shard other than air and you will get Aer seeds instead of the expected result.

Jorvalt
New Member
Pyure
Not Totally Useless
Jorvalt
New Member
Jorvalt
New Member
Jorvalt
New Member
Pyure
Not Totally Useless

Infitech, and that makes sense. We’re both members of that team and Xavion regularly submits pull requests/issues on various mods.

In the meantime, he’ll show up eventually and share his wisdom

Jorvalt
New Member

Infitech, and that makes sense. We’re both members of that team and Xavion regularly submits pull requests/issues on various mods.

In the meantime, he’ll show up eventually and share his wisdom

Jorvalt
New Member
Pyure
Not Totally Useless

Chill on it for a while friend. I asked him only a couple hours ago. I even pinged him on our infitech discord channel. He may be sleeping.

There aren’t a lot of people who know a lot about infused seeds, so I’m not shocked there’s little info out there. Xavion knows more about the subject than anyone else I know.

Jorvalt
New Member
Jorvalt
New Member
Xavion
New Member

I’m here now, was just sleeping. Anyway the main thing of note I discovered is that you can differentiate by NBT with the crucible and arcane worktable but not the infusion altar, I got it done in Infitech but having a custom item added so it could try and more closely match the normal process but that’s unneeded and it can be made just the arcane worktable or crucible. For example with just the crucible the following should work.

So the main thing to note is that I’ve swapped the seeds to a crucible recipe of 32 messis, 32 meto, and 32 of the primal aspect the seed is with an item of a normal wheat seed. The reason why I remove the research and add a replacement instead of just clearing pages and readding is because of weirdness with TT that screws up localization of pages if you attempt to do that. It’ll also only display one of the recipes, I could make it display them all but that’d be trickier, simpler to just do it this way and assume people are smart to realise swapping from aer to ignis is needed to get ignis seeds. I’ve never figured out how to get it to do the thing where it cycles through a bunch of recipes in a single page so if you do mention it please.

Also one important thing to note is you have to be using TT 517 or earlier, builds are here. Some kind of bug caused by the ender io farmer support crashes your game if you try to harvest them otherwise.

Jorvalt
New Member

I’m here now, was just sleeping. Anyway the main thing of note I discovered is that you can differentiate by NBT with the crucible and arcane worktable but not the infusion altar, I got it done in Infitech but having a custom item added so it could try and more closely match the normal process but that’s unneeded and it can be made just the arcane worktable or crucible. For example with just the crucible the following should work.

So the main thing to note is that I’ve swapped the seeds to a crucible recipe of 32 messis, 32 meto, and 32 of the primal aspect the seed is with an item of a normal wheat seed. The reason why I remove the research and add a replacement instead of just clearing pages and readding is because of weirdness with TT that screws up localization of pages if you attempt to do that. It’ll also only display one of the recipes, I could make it display them all but that’d be trickier, simpler to just do it this way and assume people are smart to realise swapping from aer to ignis is needed to get ignis seeds. I’ve never figured out how to get it to do the thing where it cycles through a bunch of recipes in a single page so if you do mention it please.

Also one important thing to note is you have to be using TT 517 or earlier, builds are here. Some kind of bug caused by the ender io farmer support crashes your game if you try to harvest them otherwise.

Version: 1.1.0 What is the bug: For some reason, the infusion recipe for Infused Seeds will only produce Aer seeds, no matter what shards I use. I…

farming station and thaumic tinkerer infused seeds #3156

Comments

adamsonich commented Jan 23, 2016

I am using EnderIO-1.7.10-2.3.0.417_beta.
Farming station takes infused seeds and place minecraft wheat seeds.

The text was updated successfully, but these errors were encountered:

HenryLoenwind commented Jan 23, 2016

Let me guess, those “infused seeds” are normal seeds with some NBT data added?

adamsonich commented Jan 23, 2016

infused seeds is seeds crafted in thaum altar and has diff ID

HenryLoenwind commented Jan 23, 2016

Ok, found them. The Farming Station is working correctly, it asks the seeds which plant to create and they answer “wheat”:

nekosune commented Jan 23, 2016

Sorry about this, it will be fixed

HenryLoenwind commented Jan 23, 2016

No need to be sorry.

We have a full moon, which means we’re getting all sorts of tickets and are a bit on the edge ourselves. ;/

adamsonich commented Jan 23, 2016

Thank U very very

nekosune commented Feb 2, 2016

is it possible to set a seed as not placable by the farming station? As this seed does weird things to the block underneath it.

HenryLoenwind commented Feb 2, 2016

This has been answered on IRC, but on the slim chance someone may find this in the future:

No, there is no blacklist. We might add one in the future, but prefer to add custom planters instead. One can also include a custom planter with their mod. Here’s an example: https://github.com/wyldmods/KitchenCraft/blob/master/Foods/src/main/java/org/wyldmods/kitchencraft/foods/common/compat/EnderIOCompat.java

nekosune commented Feb 3, 2016

I was there on IRC, saw that and alredy implementing my own thankyou!

I am using EnderIO-1.7.10-2.3.0.417_beta. Farming station takes infused seeds and place minecraft wheat seeds.

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planting germinated weed seeds

How do I germinate marijuana seeds?

Table of Contents

Introduction: Cannabis Seed Germination

Cannabis germination is the process of getting your seeds to sprout, and you know sprouting has occurred when a little white tendril pops out of the seed.

The little white tendril that emerges from a cannabis seed during germination is your plant’s first root, known as a “taproot.” All other roots made by your cannabis plant in its lifetime will sprout from the taproot.

The taproot – and maybe a few tiny early offshoots of the taproot – will get longer and longer, pushing the seed up, and after the shell breaks through the surface of your growing medium, the first leaves (these first round leaves are known as “cotyledons”) will emerge from inside the cannabis seed.

The cotyledons were already created as part of the plant embryo in the seed itself, so the cannabis seedling doesn’t have to grow them. In fact, the emerging first leaves are what break apart the shell after it’s cracked open by the taproot, as pictured here.

The next set of leaves after the cotyledons are your plants first “true” leaves and will have jagged edges (serrations). At least, they are the first leaves that your seedling cannabis plant has grown all on its own, unlike the cotyledons which were already formed in the seed.

Cannabis seeds can be expensive, don’t waste your seeds with bad germination methods!
(Wait, where can I get cannabis seeds?)

What Do Marijuana Seeds Need to Germinate?

Marijuana seeds need the following to get the best germination rates:

  • Moisture – Keep things moist but not soaking (you can soak hard seeds for up to 24-32 hours, but do not leave seeds soaking in water for longer than that).
  • Peace – Seeds need to be left alone while you’re waiting for the taproot to show up.
  • Warmth – Keep things warm to get the best germination rates, but not too hot! Think springtime. Seeds can definitely germinate in cooler temps, but germination tends to take longer when it’s cool.
  • Gentle – Be careful when checking seeds, and treat them gently when you have to move them. Avoid touching their white root if possible; the taproot is very fragile and easily snaps off!
  • Plant Root Down – When planting germinated seeds, point the white root downwards into the growing medium to prevent the seedling from having to reorient itself.
  • Plant Knuckle Deep – When planting germinated seeds, they don’t have to be placed too far under in the growing medium, about a half inch to an inch (1.3 cm – 2.5 cm) down from the surface of the medium should be enough.

When germinating cannabis seeds, think springtime conditions. In the wild, your cannabis seeds would germinate in the spring so they can be ready to take full advantage of long summer days!

Never let your young sprouted seeds dry up!

The main signal that tells a marijuana seed to start sprouting is the presence of moisture and heat. The combination of warm and wet (aka spring conditions) “tells” the seed to start burrowing their main root (called a taproot) through their shell.

If a seed’s root breaks through the shell and the water around has dried up, your seedling will die. Plain and simple.

Seedlings are fragile at first. Once sprouted, the roots need to stay constantly moist to stay happy and healthy. It’s important to make sure the seeds have access to water the entire time during germination, no matter which cannabis germination method you end up using.

Keep things warm!

Seeds germinate best in warmer temperatures and young marijuana seedlings do better with higher relative humidity in the air. When seedlings are young, they grow faster and healthier when they can absorb moisture from the air through their leaves while their roots are still developing. Dry air won’t kill your seedlings, but it doesn’t make things better. Again, think springtime conditions!

You can use an incandescent bulb (or two) placed over the marijuana seed germination area to help keep things warm. Incandescent bulbs are the opposite of what a grower typically wants: they can’t be used as grow lights, but they’re great at generating heat. Some people will also place a heating pad (the kind you get from a garden store for seedlings) underneath seeds to help aid germination.

Basically, you want to make sure any seeds or sprouts are kept warm and moist at all times, that their roots are unexposed to light, and that they get planted right away.

There are several different methods to germinate your cannabis seeds, and in this article we’ll go through some easy techniques that have proven to be effective.

How do I know if my seeds are good?

Assume all dark seeds are viable, even if seeds can be crushed

Generally, pale-green or white seeds will not germinate, but most dark seeds will germinate when given good conditions.

I used to believe that marijuana seeds were only “good” if they were extremely hard and very dark. One of the first tests I heard to check new cannabis seeds for viability was to try to crush them between my fingers. If the seeds could be crushed, they weren’t good, or so I was told. This has proven to be absolutely terrible advice!

Some of the best plants I have ever grown have emerged from seeds which were flimsy and could be crushed between my fingers. As long as you provide great marijuana germination conditions (as explained above), I’ve found that a lot of seemingly “weak” seeds germinate and produce amazingly hardy plants and great buds.

I do not believe the health of the plant is directly tied to the apparent “health” of the seed. If the seed germinates, it’s a good seed!

Here’s a picture showing several healthy and viable cannabis seeds

Remember! Most of the medical strains of marijuana we grow today (learn how to get seeds) have been bred over many years to produce plants that are easy to grow and which produce potent, medicinal buds. However, these strains have not been selected for the toughness of the seeds they produce since that isn’t important to us as growers. Just remember…

As long as a seed germinates, it’s a good seed!

Germination Method 1: Starter Cubes & Seedling Plugs (Recommended)

One of the best cannabis germination methods is to use specifically-made starter cubes and seedling plugs. These plugs make cannabis germination easy. You simply place the seed in the cube or plug, add water as directed, and seedlings automatically get the perfect conditions for germination.

Each cube or plug already has a hole specifically for you to place your seed. Just stick your seed into the precut hole and pinch the top closed a bit with your fingers. Don’t worry, you can’t mess this part up 🙂 As long as the seed makes it in there, you should be good.

This is one of the easiest germination methods and doesn’t leave a lot of room for error. Cannabis seeds and clones can be expensive, and sometimes we have genetics we just can’t afford to lose. When that’s the case, germinate your cannabis with one of the following recommended options to ensure as close to 100% germination rate as possible.

Which Starter Cubes Work Best for Germinating Cannabis?

Rapid Rooters (Highly Recommended For All Setups)

Rapid Rooters are easy to work with – you just stick your cannabis seed in the Rapid Rooter (pointy side down), keep your seed warm and slightly moist, and let the Rapid Rooter do its magic.

Sprouts emerge and roots appear in just a few days.

Rapid Rooter starter cubes are suitable for all growing methods, including hydroponics, coco coir and soil. They work for every setup and come from General Hydroponics, a trusted company (the same one used by NASA) which is known for the quality and consistency of its products.

I highly recommend using Rapid Rooters over any other starter plugs. They are less prone to problems and work great with any growing medium (including hydroponic systems).

Pros of Rapid Rooters

  • Easy to Use – You Can’t Really Mess Up
  • No Prep or Setup – Open the Package and Go
  • Some of the Best Germination Rates of Any Method

Cons of Rapid Rooters

  • Can only get 50+ at a time (General Hydroponics currently does not offer fewer plugs per package)
  • After opening the package, you only have a week or two before they dry out, so if you’re only germinating one or two seeds, you’ll end up having to throw many of the Rapid Rooters away.

There are a few different options for Rapid Rooters, which can be confusing if you’re not sure what you want. The 3 different options for Rapid Rooters are listed here…

Bag of Rapid Rooters

These are round on bottom instead of being a cube, which means they cannot stand up on their own. These are best suited to a hydroponic setup where the Rapid Rooter will be placed directly in the final destination. In our hydroponic setups, we’ve had near 100% germination rates with Rapid Rooters, better than any other seedling cube we’ve tried.

  • Round on bottom (won’t stand up by themselves without support) unless you squish the bottom so it’s flat like this grower did (pic)
  • Great for starting with Rapid Rooter directly in final destination (hydro, soil, coco coir, etc)
  • Get 50 Rapid Rooters at a time

Rapid Rooters Mat

This type of Rapid Rooters comes in a mat of (usually 98) Rapid Rooters. All the individual Rapid Rooters are sectioned off and have a hole for the seed, but they must be cut or pulled away from the complete mat. Unlike the type of Rapid Rooters that comes in a bag, these ones are made into cubes and are flat on the bottom so they can stand alone. This makes them good for germinating in a shallow pool of water where the cubes need to be able to stand up on their own.

  • Easily break cubes off the mat (already sectioned off with pre-cut holes)
  • Already shaped like cubes with flat bottoms, so they easily stand up by themselves
  • Good for seamlessly transplanting your seedlings somewhere else
  • Get 98 Rapid Rooters at a time

Rapid Rooters Tray

The Rapid Rooters tray is perfect for seeds or clones. Allow your young plants to sit in the tray with water until their roots are well formed and ready to be transplanted to your final destination. The standard size tray fits most humidity domes. You can refill the tray with Rapid Rooters from the bag or mat.

As you can see in the pictures below, the Rapid Rooter Tray comes packaged up. Once you open the package, you will see 50 Rapid Rooters already set in the tray. The resting place for each Rapid Rooter has a hole on the bottom so water within the tray is wicked up. The top part comes apart from the bottom.

Just add you seeds and pour some water into the tray – the Rapid Rooters will do everything else for you.

  • Perfect for cloning or starting seeds with a humidity dome (standard 10-inch by 20-inch dome like this one – 7-inch height recommended for cannabis seeds or clones)
  • Easy to transplant to new destination
  • Just add water and seeds, that’s it!
  • Whole tray can be refilled with any type of Rapid Rooters (from bag or mat)
  • Comes with 50 Rapid Rooters, ready to go

Rockwool Cubes (Not Recommended)

It’s often hydroponic cannabis growers who use Rockwool cubes since these can be safely placed in hydroponic setups, hold a lot of moisture, and are resistant to mold. Rockwool is cheap and easy to find. It comes in convenient cubes. But it does have some major drawbacks…

Pros of Rockwool

  • Cheap & Easy to Find
  • Inert Medium (useful for hydroponic growers)

Cons of Rockwool

  • Bad for the environment (unnatural material that does not break down)
  • Bad for your health (especially your lungs) – wear gloves and cover your mouth/eyes when handling Rockwool
  • Has a pH that is too high for cannabis, so it must be thoroughly rinsed and treated
  • Poor cloning and germination rates
  • Difficult for new growers

Rockwool cubes are bad for the environment

Rockwool is not a natural material – it’s made by heating rock and chalk to 3,000°F and air is blown through the mixture to create thin fibers of rocky material

It does not break down naturally and therefore after Rockwool is created, it will remain in that form basically forever, filling up landfills without breaking down for thousands of years.

Rockwool cubes can be bad for your health

Rockwool is dusty and needs to be rinsed thoroughly before use. Little pieces of Rockwool and dust can easily get in your eyes, skin and mouth. Small strands or fibers can get lodged in your lungs if you breathe in Rockwool dust, and it’s unknown if these fibers can ever get out again.

Protect yourself! Always use a mask, goggles and gloves when working with Rockwool.

Rockwool cubes have a high pH until they’re treated

New Rockwool cubes have a high pH – too high for healthy cannabis seed germination. Therefore it’s important to thoroughly rinse Rockwool cubes in pHed water, then let them soak in pHed water overnight before use. Since Rockwool holds onto a lot of water, after soaking they should be given a few days to dry out before planting seeds or making clones.

Rockwool cubes do not get great germination rates

Rockwool can be difficult to germinate marijuana seeds in, so I recommend most beginner growers sprout their seeds using another method like Rapid Rooters (mentioned above) which can also be used in hydroponic applications but are less prone to germination problems.

Many growers have placed seeds in Rockwool cubes, only to wait for weeks and never see seedlings appear.

Some growers seem to have no problems, yet many other growers suffer through very poor germination rates. Some seed companies will not honor seed germination guarantees if the grower uses Rockwool because it is notoriously bad for germination.

If you do use Rockwool, it’s recommended you germinate your seeds using another method like the paper towel method, then transplant your seeds to the Rockwool cubes after roots have already appeared.

Even when following all the best practices, we just have not gotten great germination rates with Rockwool cubes, and it’s common for new seedlings not to make it. When we were using Rockwool (before we switched to Rapid Rooters), we usually lost at least 1 seed out of a batch of 6 or 8.

We also had trouble rooting clones in Rockwool. Rockwool cubes just don’t hold enough air to get plenty of oxygen to the roots, and they tend to hold onto a lot of water and get waterlogged easily. Since Rockwool can hold a lot of water, it’s prone to “drowning” seeds

I highly recommend using Rapid Rooters instead for your hydroponic application (or any grow setup), as they are much more user-friendly and tend to get far better germination rates.

Jiffy Pellets (Recommended for Soil or Coco Coir)

Jiffy Pellets are used in a similar way to Rockwool cubes, though these tend to get much better germination results. Jiffy pellets are not suitable for most hydroponic setups where the roots are grown directly in water, but Jiffy Pellets can be directly transferred into soil or coco coir.

Pros of Jiffy Pellets

  • Good Germination Rates for Soil and Coco Coir
  • Good for Cloning – read a cannabis cloning tutorial using Jiffy pellets
  • Come in dried pellets, so they can be kept for a long time

Cons of Jiffy Pellets

  • Not suitable for hydroponic setups
  • Must be soaked to expand each pellet before use

How to Use: Soak Jiffy pellets in warm water, which makes the pellets expand in size, as pictured below.

Once the compressed Jiffy pellets have expanded in warm water, gently squeeze excess water from each pellet and you’re ready to go. Treat them the same as Rapid Rooters.

Germination Method 2: Plant marijuana seeds directly in growing medium

Sometimes nature’s way is the easiest way. In nature, marijuana seedlings would sprout in soil, and they would emerge as their taproots start growing down.

As a grower, you can also plant your seeds directly in your final growing medium. This works in all growing mediums, though some can be tougher than others.

One of the biggest benefits of planting your seed directly in the growing medium is you don’t have to worry about shocking your young seedling during transplant. Because your seed is already in its final resting place, your new seedling will immediately start adjusting to the environment. Every time you transplant a sprouted seed, it can cause stress as the young plant needs to readjust its new surroundings.

  • Soil – Plant seeds a knuckle deep (0.5-1 inch OR 1.3 cm – 2.5 cm) in moist yet not soaking soil. Use a light or a heating pad to keep things warm. This is one of the easiest marijuana germination methods for beginners.
  • Coco Coir or other soilless growing mediums – Plant in a similar way to soil

Germination Method 3: Germination Station

One option for growers is to use a tool which has been specifically designed to provide optimal germination conditions like this germination station with heat mat.

You can make a DIY germination station at home by putting a plastic dome over a plate on a heating pad.

There are benefits to the professionally made germination stations as they work very well and are pretty cheap to buy.

When growers start their cannabis seedlings in a germination station, the seeds are usually germinated in a starter seedling cube.

One of the advantages of starting seeds in starter cubes is your sprouted seeds can easily be transferred right to their next growing medium or container.

I recommend Rapid Rooters as these starter cubes work great for cannabis seeds and can be used in any growing medium including hydroponics, soil, or coco coir. Other starter cubes include Jiffy Peat Pellets, and Rockwool cubes.

Once your seed has sprouted, just make a little hole in your growing medium, and place the entire pellet inside. Make sure growing medium is also moist yet not soaking, like your pellet or cube. The roots will emerge from the bottom of the cube and burrow directly into your growing medium.

Germination Method 4: Soak Marijuana Seeds in Water Overnight

Another method to germinate marijuana seeds is to soak them overnight in slightly warm water, usually done in a glass drinking cup.

This method is especially effective for seeds which have extra hard shells, or seeds which are older (more than a few years old).

The warm overnight soaking can help “wake up” older seeds.

Most viable seeds will start out floating, and then eventually sink to the bottom of your glass after a few hours of soaking.

If soaked in a clear drinking glass, you will see when the little white tap root first breaks through the shell.

Some seeds take longer than others to sprout. Especially older seeds tend to need longer to pierce through their shell. However, if seeds are left soaking too long, and haven’t yet sprouted, they can drown.

Therefore, do not leave seeds soaking in water for more than 24-32 hours.

After 24 hours, I recommend putting any still-ungerminated seeds in a warm, moist place to finish germinating.

Germination Method 5: Paper Towel Method

One way to germinate seeds is to wet a paper towel and then fold your seeds in it, then leave the paper towel in a warm place.

Use cheap paper towels! For some reason, the really cheap paper towels work best because they’re so non-porous. Seeds and their roots lay on top without getting stuck to anything. This is important! The more expensive “cloth-like” paper towels (like Viva brand) aren’t good for germination because the roots actually grow into them instead of laying on top.

If you germinate your seeds in a paper towel, there is the risk of hurting the tap root (the little white root that grows out of your seeds) when moving the sprouted seeds so make sure you are careful when you’re checking to see if the seeds sprouted.

There is also the possibility of having the towel dry out which will kill your new seeds so I recommend putting your paper towel under an upside down bowl or between two paper (or regular) plates.

Check on germinating seeds once every 12 hours or so (don’t disturb them or their roots). You can plant any seeds which have sprouted right away, or leave them for another day or two, to let the others keep up.

How to Plant Your Germinated Cannabis Seeds

After you see that your cannabis seeds have sprouted, you should plant them right away.

You don’t want to touch the little white taproot with your fingers, so either carefully move the seeds, or use tweezers. If you do touch or break the root, the seedling may still survive, but any damage to the root will definitely stunt and slow down growth right in the beginning.

Root down!

Plant seeds so that the white root faces downward, about a knuckle deep into your growing medium. The top of the seed should be just below the surface of your growing medium.

It can take anywhere from a couple of hours to a couple of days before you see the young seedling emerge from the soil or growing medium. If your marijuana seedling hasn’t sprouted from the soil within 10 days after being placed root-down, it probably isn’t going to make it 🙁 Even with the best practices and the best seeds, you will occasionally lose a seed. Many times it has nothing to do with you!

First sign of taproots. These are ready to be planted!

Rapid Rooters are nice, but not necessary. You can use them before you transfer your seedlings to their final container. The Rapid Rooter should be cut open lengthwise if you plan on using them for germinated seeds. I use big scissors.

Gently place the germinated seed inside, root down. Place the seed close to the surface so it doesn’t have far to go.

Sometimes you’ll have a taproot that is curved or bent. You don’t want to try to straighten it out! Open the Rapid Rooter you split, and lay the germinated seed down gently. The seed and root will naturally lay on the flattest side. Slowly close the Rapid Rooter, and you’ll see that the bent parts of the root will end up in the “crack” of the Rapid Rooter from where you cut to split it open from the side.

After closing a Rapid Rooter, it’s hard to tell it’s been opened. The texture of Rapid Rooters causes the seeds to stay in place and not “fall down” further into the hole once you’ve got it closed.

Sometimes the shell can get stuck on the seedling, but it will often fall off on its own. If it seems really stuck, you can help the seedling by gently removing it.

Within the first week of germinating seeds, you will notice that some seeds germinate right away and others take a little bit longer. This can be caused by a lot of things, from the age of the seed (old seeds have worse germination rates and tend to take longer) to simple chance. The amount of time does not necessarily have anything to do with how healthy your plant will be in the long run.

Once your seeds are safely planted, you can turn on your grow light. The heat from the lamp improves germination rates, and the light can help your new cannabis seedlings open their first set of leaves. In fact, the first set of leaves will often stay yellow until they get light.

If you will be transplanting your seedlings again, avoid transplanting until they are well established and have a couple of sets of leaves (nodes). Some growers will plant seedlings in a growing medium in a solo cup or peat pot, so they can just cut away the cup for easy transplanting.

When you move seedlings around a lot, it stresses them out and potentially stunts their growth. Too much stress can even kill them. So try to plan from the beginning so that you move your seedlings around as little as possible. once they get bigger, they are a lot more hardy and can stand a lot more stress and movement.

Here are some pictures to give you an idea of the timeline to expect

Sprouted seeds planted in Hydrofarm pellets and placed on soil

If you want, you can put bottles on top to help retain extra humidity (like a cheap humidity dome).

It’s a steady 85 degrees F in there, no idea about the humidity in the bottles.

Marijuana seedlings under T5 Grow Light

Day 7 from seed

Your Cannabis Seedling’s First Few Weeks

During the first few weeks of a young marijuana plant’s life, you have to be careful.

Marijuana seedlings, especially seeds from some of the most potent strains, tend to be a bit delicate.

Seedlings definitely won’t be able to withstand full-strength grow lights or nutrients. They need to have a moist environment, but also can easily be drowned or overwatered.

If you’re planting in soil, start with a balanced potting soil that doesn’t contain extra nutrients. I recommend Happy Frog potting soil mix for young cannabis seedlings, but any plain potting mix from your local garden store will do. Never use Miracle-Gro soil or any soil that has “time-released” nutrients already mixed in. After your plants have grown a few sets of leaves, you can transfer them to a stronger potting mix that contains higher levels of nutrients like Fox Farms Ocean Forest soil, or you can start supplementing with cannabis soil nutrients. Don’t want to use nutrients? Learn how to mix up your own super soil so it has all the nutrients your cannabis plants will need!

If you’re planting in coco coir, a soilless medium, or hydroponics, only add cannabis nutrients at seedling strength, or 1/4 the regular strength, until your plants have grown a few sets of leaves. Then you can slowly start working your way up to full strength nutrient levels.

With young marijuana seedlings, less is more.

You’re trying to give young plants a very small dose of nutrients at first. However, even with young marijuana seedlings, the pH of your water and growing medium is important. Some growers get lucky and happen to have water with the right pH, but if you’re noticing deficiencies and problems with your seedlings, definitely take the time to understand about marijuana root pH and how it affects the plant’s overall health.

If you plan on eventually putting your marijuana seedlings under high intensity grow lights (such as HPS or MH grow lights), you may want to start them out with less intense fluorescent grow lights or compact fluorescent bulbs (CFLs). Or just keep your high intensity grow lights several feet away at first, and slowly move lights closer as your seedlings gets older

CFL bulbs (twisty/spiral bulbs as pictured to the right) are a great source of light for young marijuana seedlings

  • CFLs provide the right types of light for seedlings
  • CFLs are extremely cheap to buy
  • CFLs are easy on your electric bill
  • CFLs can be found almost anywhere, at your local hardware store, supermart, grocery store, or online

Keep CFLs or fluorescent lights about 6 inches away from your seedlings. Place your hand where the leaves are to make sure it doesn’t feel too hot. If it’s hot for your after 10 seconds, it’s too hot for your plants.

Once your seedlings have developed their first two sets of leaves, then you can move these lights as close as 2 inches away as long as the lights aren’t too hot.

Remember: If grow lights feels too hot to your hand after 10 seconds, they’re too hot for your marijuana seedlings

Make sure to keep a close eye on your seedlings to ensure they don’t grow too close to the grow lights and burn themselves. Seedlings can grow fast, and many growers have been surprised to find plants have actually grown into the light overnight.

If new seedlings are showing signs of stress, try moving the lights further away and see if that helps.

Once marijuana seedlings are about fourteen days old, they’re ready to start being treated as if they’re in the vegetative stage.

This Timeline Will Help Show You What to Expect

Seedling
Two round cotyledon leaves, then two “real” (serrated) single-finger cannabis leaves

Next, the single-finger leaves expand, and the next set is usually 3-finger leaves

Next, the cannabis plant will start making 5-finger leaves

Finally, most cannabis plants stop at 7-finger leaves

If you look closely at the above plant, you can see that some of the newer leaves on this plant actually have 9 fingers. It is normal for there to be some variation between leaves – some plants will grow leaves with 11 or even 13 fingers. But the above guide will give you a general idea of what to expect.

Once your cannabis seedling is about fourteen days old, it’s ready to start being treated as if in the vegetative stage.

Make sure you learn about plant training techniques to make the most of your time in the vegetative stage!

Wait! My seed is growing upside down with the roots up; what do I do?

As long as the roots of a cannabis seedling are able to grow down, they will. Roots never grow upward on their own. Seedlings can sense the difference between up and down. Roots always try to grow down. Roots never grow upwards.

So how come sometimes it looks like a cannabis plant is growing with its roots pointing up?

When the seed end is still bent down, all you see is a U-shaped stem/root

Cannabis seeds can look a bit different when germinating. When in doubt, always wait a few days to see if leaves appear before you try to interfere.

Sometimes the stem of a brand new cannabis seedling can look like the roots growing out the top. But if you wait and watch, you’ll see that it’s all part of the plan. Hope these pics help someone!

Sometimes you’ll see what appears to be roots emerging from your cannabis seed, but this is actually the stem. The stem pushes the seed and leaves up, and the main taproot is currently burrowing down to support the seedling

As the seedling emerges you’ll be able to see the leaves (sometimes it will still have the seed stuck on the first leaves, like in the picture above).

The cotyledons (first, round leaves) unfurl, and then the regular cannabis leaves between to grow. Here’s another view of that same seedling from above. Even though it may have looked a bit weird at first, this seedling is completely normal and will grow just fine from now on.

What Size Pot Should I Use?

When growing cannabis plants in a container, you have to choose the size of your pot.

A general guide is to have about 2 gallons per 12″ of height. This isn’t perfect since plants often grow differently, but this is a good rule of thumb.

When in doubt, get a bigger final container size as opposed to a smaller one. Plants that get rootbound from being in a too-small container will grow more slowly and be prone to problems. It’s not good to transfer plants during the flowering/budding stage, so you want to have your cannabis plants in their final container at least 2 weeks before the beginning of flowering/budding. How do I get my cannabis plants to start flowering?

Final Container for Desired Plant Size – General guide

2-3 gallon container

3-5 gallon container

5-7 gallon container

6-10 gallon container

8-10+ gallon container

But what size pot should you use for your seedlings?

For fastest growth rates, it’s better to plant young seedlings or clones in a very small container, like a disposable plastic solo cup.

For new seedlings and clones, use a small container if possible

The reason you want to start with a small container is that your plant’s young roots thrive on oxygen. Cannabis plant roots “breathe” oxygen, just like we breathe air, and it’s important that young cannabis roots get plenty of oxygen so the plant can grow as fast as possible.

However, young plant roots do not drink much water yet. When you water seedlings or clones in a very big container, they will use up all the oxygen quickly, and the large size of the container will prevent the growing medium from drying out.

A big plant will drink up all the water quickly, but with seedlings, you’re basically waiting for the growing medium to dry out by itself. While you’re waiting for the container to dry out, your cannabis roots are sitting in a wet environment and not getting much oxygen, slowing down their growth rates.

Poke holes in the bottom of your cup so water can drain out easily!

By planting young seeds in a small container with holes in the bottom, the growing medium will dry out much more quickly, allowing you to water more often. The young cannabis will get plenty of oxygen and water.

Alternative to Solo Cup: Start plants in seedling cube

If you don’t want to have to transplant your young plants, you can start them in a seedling plug or cube and wait until you start seeing roots come out the bottom. At that point, they will be ready to be transferred to a larger container.

What happens if I plant seeds or clones in a big container?

Your cannabis seedlings and clones will definitely survive in a bigger container; they just won’t grow as fast for the first few days or weeks because they aren’t getting as much oxygen.

With a bigger container, you will need to wait longer between waterings, and during that time your plant roots will be getting reduced oxygen.

If you’ve planted your young plant in a large container, try to give only a little bit of water at a time (enough to wet the area around the seedling roots) until the plant is growing vigorously. Once the plant has grown a few sets of leaves, you should start watering cannabis normally so that water drains out the bottom.

One of the advantages of starting young plants in a big container is you won’t have to transfer them to bigger containers as they get older.

If you would like to take advantage of faster vegetative growth from transplanting, view the Complete Cannabis Transplant Guide (with pics!)

How do I germinate marijuana seeds? Table of Contents Introduction: Cannabis Seed Germination Cannabis germination is the process of getting your seeds to sprout, and you know sprouting

How to properly plant weed seeds after germination?

In our previous blog “Germinating marijuana seeds” you could read how to germinate marijuana seeds. Germinating is the preparation process to successfully grow a cannabis plant.

As soon as the seed has a root you can plant the seed. Planting cannabis seeds is not difficult at all. Yet, it does require some basic knowledge and skills. This article will help you to plant your cannabis seeds so you start your grow in the best way possible.

Why germinate before planting?

Of course you can place a cannabis seed directly in the soil, but this has three disadvantages:

  • The seed can become too moist, causing it to rot.
  • The seed stays too dry so it can’t grow. And because the seed is under the ground you can’t control it.
  • You can’t determine the direction of growth of the root. In short, our advice is to germinate before you start planting cannabis seeds.

When you should plant your cannabis seeds

When you have followed our advice your seeds have sprouted and you can start planting your seeds. Make sure the seeds have a root of at least 1.5 to a maximum of 2.5 centimeters. Are you planting the germinated cannabis seeds too early or too late? Then there is a chance that the plant dies at a young age. It is therefore important that you plant the germinated seeds as soon as the root is long enough.

Always plant indoors first

Good to know is that you first plant and your cannabis seeds indoors, even if you will eventually grow them indoors or outdoors. The reason to let young female plants grow indoors first is because they are fragile in the beginning. A gust of wind can blow the plant over or be damaged by animals. Indoors you have a safe environment where the young seedling can become strong enough before it is moved outside.

What do you need to plant germinated cannabis seeds?

Fortunately, you don’t need much to plant your germinated cannabis seeds. A lot of things are already standard available in your home and otherwise you can buy them at any garden center.

What you need:

  • Lightproof pot or mug of 1 to 2 liters
  • Potting soil (light mix for cuttings and seedlings)
  • Pen or pencil
  • Tweezers
  • Germinated cannabis seeds
  • Plant sprayer

Are all items present? Then the real work starts: planting your cannabis seeds. Use the step-by-step plan below.

How to plant marijuana seeds in 4 simple steps?

In four simple steps you will learn how to successfully plant cannabis seeds. Whether you’re an advanced or beginner, want to grow indoor or outdoor seeds, the process is always the same. Follow the steps below carefully and you’ll grow your own beautiful cannabis plant.

  1. Fill the pot or cup with potting soil
  2. Make a dimple in the earth
  3. Place the weed seed in the dimple
  4. Cover the seed with a thin layer of earth

Step 1 – fill the pot or cup with potting soil

Fill the cup or pot up to 1 cm below the edge with potting soil (light mix for cuttings or seedlings). Do not add extra nutrients. Seedlings get more than enough nutrients from the soil. Too much nutrient can have a negative effect.

Step 2 – make a small dimple

To plant your cannabis seeds you make a dimple in the growing medium. You can easily do this by inserting your pen or pencil into the soil. The tiny hole should be about 2 to 2.5 cm deep. If you mark this on the side of your pencil, you can be sure that the depth is good.

Step 3 – place the cannabis seed in the dimple

Use your fingers or tweezers to place the weed seed in the hole. Do this carefully, because if you squeeze too hard you can damage the germinated seed. The root of the seed should point downwards (!).

Tip: did you use damp kitchen paper towels when germinating and is the root of the seed attached to it? Do not pull it loose, but first spray the seed again with water. You will see that the seed now easily lets go.

How should you plant the weed seed?

Make sure that when you plant your cannabis seed, the root disappears as deep as possible into the hole. The skin of the seed should be at least 0.5 cm below the surface.

Step 4 – cover the seed with a thin layer of soil

Did you put the seed in the tiny hole? Great! Cover the seed carefully with a thin layer of soil. Do not press the soil! A few millimeters of soil over the seed is more than enough to block the grow lights or sun. Spray the surface moist with the plant sprayer and place the cup or pot in the window sill or under light. After a few days the seeds will grow out the surface.

Your cannabis seeds have been planted! How to proceed?

You’re already on your way to grow your cannabis plant. But maybe you want to continue growing marijuana plants outdoors in the end.

As said before, you do the beginning of the growing process indoors and that takes about two weeks. After two weeks the plant is strong enough to repot to another place or larger pot to continue growing. How to do this, we tell you in the blogs:

Would you like to know how to properly plant weed seeds after germination? Read the information about this subject on Weedseedsexpress