Can You Use Weed And Feed Fertilizer After Seeding

When and How to Apply Weed & Feed Weed & feed is the generic name for a broad range of lawn chemical products designed to strengthen existing grass and kill off certain weeds in a single After overseeding your lawn, apply a lawn starter fertilizer to provide grass seedlings with the nutrients they need to establish themselves. Do not Knowing when to fertilize new grass is critical. Apply lawn fertilizer too early or to late, and your new grass will underperform or die.

When and How to Apply Weed & Feed

Weed & feed is the generic name for a broad range of lawn chemical products designed to strengthen existing grass and kill off certain weeds in a single application. It generally improves your lawn’s ability to absorb water and food, and adds necessary nutrients which promote healthy growth. A healthy lawn, in turn, discourages weed propagation, enabling the use of a reduced amount of the product over time.

The “weed” portion of weed and feed is one of a variety of broad leaf-targeted herbicides (usually Dicamba, 2,4-D, and/or MCPP) that attacks dandelions, dollarweed, and most other green leafy weeds. Not to be confused with pre-emergent, the chemical is usually sold in granules that are applied to and subsequently absorbed by the leaves of the weed. The granules will not sit on grass blades, which is why weed and feed generally doesn’t kill regular grass unless it is incorrectly applied (over-saturating, especially, can cause grass death). There are also liquid forms of weed and feed that are generally applied with a foaming sprayer. The same concept applies for the foams: they sit on and are absorbed by large weeds, while they run off of grasses.

The “feed” portion of weed & feed is a fertilizer that contains some combination of nitrogen, phosphorous, and/or potassium to green up your lawn. The exact blend of fertilizer ingredients varies by brand, but all products will contain some percentage of nitrogen. Some products also include additional benefits, such as timed-released nitrogen for extended feeding.

When to Apply Weed & Feed

It’s important to apply weed & feed when weeds are actively growing. Applying weed & feed during the winter will have absolutely no effect on the lawn in the following spring and summer. You should spread weed & feed on damp/wet grass (use a sprinkler or apply just after rain) so that the granules stick better to the leafy portions of the weeds.

You should also pick a time when no additional rain is expected for two days, and you should avoid watering your lawn over this period. This allows time for the herbicide to absorb into the leaves. If it does rain or the lawn gets drenched, it will wash the granules off the leaves. In this case, however, you cannot re-apply the chemical immediately because you will over-feed the lawn and potentially cause a chemical scorch.

How to Spread Weed & Feed

There are a few important details to remember when spreading weed & feed. Keep all of these in mind when planning the job to achieve the best results. Note that these tips are not intended to replace manufacturers instructions, though you will find most manufacturers will recommend some variation of these tips.

  • Make sure your lawn is a normal height (not too tall, not too short) – approximately 3-5 inches is good.
  • Wait 2-4 days after mowing before applying. This protects your grass and helps ensure the weeds are actively growing. It also allows some of the leaves on the weeds to grow that may have been cut during mowing.
  • Don’t water the lawn for two-four days after application. (Which means you shouldn’t apply the granules during a dry / hot spell). This is another important difference between broadleaf weed control and applying crabgrass preventer.
  • Be careful not to apply too much product as this will scorch your lawn. Check the manufacturer’s guidelines. Scorching occurs when you over-saturate the soil with the feeding chemical.
  • Only apply weed & feed twice per year. Over-application can result in run off that is harmful to the local environment, such as nearby rivers, bays, or lakes/ponds. The feed portion of the chemical is actually more dangerous in these areas as it can encourage algae blooms which choke out fish and native plants.
  • Be sure to spread the herbicide uniformly across the lawn for best results. You may choose to use a broadcast spreader and make two passes at half-application strength, rather than trying to spread at full strength in the first pass.
  • Avoid spreading granules onto flowers, vegetables, and ornamental shrubbery. It will kill most broad leaf plants, regardless of whether you consider them weeds. If you must spread near a garden, either use a drop spreader or consider laying plastic temporarily over the area near where you will be spreading.

Planting Grass or Aerating after Weed & Feed

Weed & Feed prevents seed germination, so you should avoid planting new grass or aerating your lawn for at least four weeks. We recommend waiting longer, though. If you weed & feed in the spring and summer, spread grass seed and aerate in the fall each year.

Reasons Weed & Feed Didn’t Work

Here are some common reasons that weed & feed was ineffective:

  • Weed & feed targets broadleaf weeds like dandelions, and dollarweeds. It does nothing for crabgrass and other grassy weeds. For these, you should use a crabgrass preventer in early spring. Make sure your weeds are on the list that the chemical targets.
  • Mature weeds are not actively growing, so the product wasn’t as effective. Weed & feed should be applied early in the growing season and a couple days after mowing.
  • Rain and sprinklers can wash away the granules. Make sure there is no rain in the forecast and avoid watering for two days after applying.

What if You Apply Too Much Weed & Feed?

The best way to avoid damaging your lawn is the flush out the weed & feed. Water your lawn with 1 to 2 inches of water for about 4 days. Don’t apply any other weed & feed until the following year.

Unfortunately, over watering like this can create run-off in certain drainage situations, so try to avoid the situation in the first place.

Safety Considerations & Pets

Like every lawn chemical, standard precautions should be followed before applying weed and feed or any herbicide to your lawn. These safety instructions are NO substitute for manufacturers guidelines. Be sure to read the safety instructions on the bag and follow them.

  • Wear long pants and long sleeves and gloves during application. Herbicides like Dicamba, 2,4-D, and MCPP can cause serious skin irritation.
  • Avoid contact with eyes. If you get the dust of the product in your eyes, flush them for 15 minutes with water.
  • Never ingest the product, leave the product where a child could ingest it, or leave it open for pets. Weed and feed chemicals can be harmful or fatal if swallowed. If swallowed, you should call 911 or a poison control center immediately.
  • Keep pets and children off the lawn until after the first drenching rain after application. Visually inspect the lawn to ensure the granules are completely dissolved.

Professional Lawn Service

Professional lawn care services will provide experienced and knowledgeable staff that will manage every aspect of your lawn. They will address pH imbalances, conduct soil test, proper watering and spur new grass growth. You can find a local expert through services like ServiceMagic, or you could contact TruGreen or another service near you.

What do you think? Do you put down weed & feed?

how do you rate scotts 4 step program

Scotts 4 step program is good : Weed & Feed( Turf Building/2x yr., Seperate Crabgrass treatment and other additional weeds that the W&F doesn’t Kill..

Creeping Charlie is another Issue, I use Ortho-Weed-B-Gone Concentrate in the Fall for my a 1 qtr Spray Bottle . If have alot? Use a 1 Gal Sprayer.. It may take a couple of YRS to get rid of most if not all of it..

FYI- I use Weed and Feed 2x a yr.. Early Spring for the 1st wave of Dandeliens and again in July for the 2nd wave.. I time it when its going to rain.. . If have any left over? I spread a Lite treatment in late Fall..

Around Bushes, Veggies, Flowers? Simple 50% Vinegar and Water spray!

Gravel Driveway? Spry with Weed B-Gone In early Spring and again in Mid Summer…. Don’t wait till the weeds come up in the driveway.. If you do? Kill them and then have to Rake them up ..If Have alot of Weeds In Driveway? Hire someone to Grade it and then Spray it afterwards. and Every Month thereafter 1st Year..

Can use 50/50 Vinegar and Water and 1oz. of soap Detergant in 1 gal Sprayer… .Is more Enviormentally safer if On Well Water But will take More Treaments..

I also Use Weed & Feed on my neighbors Lawns if they don’t do it? I have summer Home owners and they do very little to their lawns.. I treat them in the Fall ( after they leave for the season) …to Reduce my getting their Weeds blowing over into my the Spring.. Cost me $10 in extra W&F & 5 min for each lawn, but worth it. to me.. They, In turn will Mow my Lawn for me 2x a yr. when we go away on camping trips..

Hope some of this helps others !

Outstanding commentary- THANK YOU!

I have a dilemma: Instructions say to apply weed and feed a couple of days before rainfall, and then to not let your pets on the lawn until after the first drenching rain. How am I supposed to keep my dogs off the lawn for 2+ days?

Did you really ask that question? Would you go sit in the middle of your yard after weed and feed? How would you stay out of the yard? Use some common sense.

Maybe you could divide your lawn into 2 different areas i.e. front and back and do them at different times. If the “drenching rain” is taking too long to come then use the sprinkler instead. Or alternatively plan a camping trip with your dogs right after doing your lawn.

Thanks for the tips. I always thought I had to water the lawn as soon as I was done applying the weed and feed.

Yeah, that us what my neighbor thought, too, who has been doing mine a and never killing any weeds. I did it once, the right way, and the died out so well that I was able to take a heavy metal take and take out huge chunks of dead weeds. It looked good sheng the lawn filled in, but then gets windy in Sacramento and back come the dandy lions. He is very nice to help me as I just had surgery, but he mowed, put out the weed and feed and stuck the sprinkler on. It won’t kill the weeds and hopefully it will feed something! I ALWAYS READ directions, even if I think I know.

I didn’t realize that mature weeds aren’t effected by weed killer. That’s good to know.

Is it too late to use weed and feed? How can I kill grassburrs?

Weed & Feed will target specific broadlead weeds and should be applied during the active growing cycle. Check the bag to see what weeds it will target.

Grassburrs are a grassy weed (not broadleaf) and you should apply pre-emergent to help get rid of them. Put down pre-emergent when the soil temp reaches about 50 degress. There are post-emergent herbicides (MSMA or DSMA) and these work best on immature grassburr plants.

I had a young man spread weed and feed yesterday on my backyard. He said I should use my sprinkler system in the everning which I did. ‘
Also I have a dog and he said not to let the dog out. I forgot to ask him how long that should be. I used the sprinkler yesterday and I let the dog out this morning.
Since then she is acting differently…laying around and hiding, wimpering. Is it possible that she’s been poisoned? If so, what should I do, short of taking her to a vet. It’s Sunday and I’m not sure I can get hold of the Vet.
Please answer quickly.

Lou, We are far from qualified to give you advise about your dog. I would definitely call a vet. Get a list of the active and inactive ingredients as both can be harmful. Hope your dog is OK!

Your dog is acting funny cuz he thinks you are acting funny.

Minimum 72 hours personally I would wait a full week 7 days before I would put any kind of domestic pet out their .
Ethan this is for you as well

I had a baby Yorkie that walked on the neighbors freshly fertilized lawn and it was dead the next day. Please be careful with pets.

Same thing happened to my grand daughter …. bloody weed and feed.

Clint, surely you have better things to do than troll people on this thread. Please grow up and go away.

Thanks… and what about my pets with this product?

I recently had a man to seed my yard now the weeds is taking over the grass that is coming up. What should i do my yard looks a mess.

But a new house

Clint, surely you have better things to do than troll people on this thread. Please grow up and go away.

Anna, thank you for addressing the problem of trolling. This is the most constructive response I’ve yet seen anywhere.

I would like an answer to this question. Fescue seeds planted two weeks ago and weeds are growing along with grass. When is it safe on grass and seedlings to use a weed and feed?

I am planning to apply weed and feed to my lawn, but the lawn appears to have a good bit of thatch. Is it OK to de-thatch the lawn before I apply the weed and feed? Thanks!

@Jerrad, Some thatch is a good thing. It helps prevent weeds from taking hold and locks in moisture. With that said, you want less than 1/2″ of thatch. If you have more, you should aerate your lawn. There’s no reason to wait in between aerating and applying weed and feed.

Can you use Weed n Feed on vegetables?

Hi Donna, Weed & Feed will kill vegetables. Don’t use it on your garden or flowers.

If used in your vegetable garden, how long shoud you wait before re-planting?

i just resod my lawn 5/1/11. When should I use weed and feed on new lawn or should it be used at all?

Hi Tonya, A newly sodded lawn is still very “fragile” and applying W&F before it has established roots is a bad idea. In my opinion, wait till the fall at the earliest.

Will the weed and feed help repair the grass that has been destroyed by my female dog’s urine?

No you have to clean it out and start over

Cheap beer poured onto those burned spots should also help. My mom would only let my dog off the deck which resulted in a large burn spot. I added some Pabst Blue Ribbon beer threw down seeds and it grew back nice. Less work.

OMG – don’t waste beer.

Probably the best use of PBR to be honest

I can’t speak for refilling the space, maybe rake it up amd replant with starter seed, but for the dog, add ketchup to their food, regularly, it will change the pH of their urine, and not burn up your grass nearly as much!

Ralph, how much ketchup? I have 4 large German Shepherds and this is an ongoing problem with the grass in our backyard. They range in weight from 70 lbs. to 115 lbs.

Hi Marsha, forget the ketchup, you cant safely change the ph of a dog’s pee by altering its diet. The grass gets burned by the high nitrogen content in urine. A little nitrogen is a good fertilizer, too much nitrogen burns. Best fix is to pour a gallon or more of plain water on it when your dog pees. This will dilute the urine enough so it won’t burn your lawn. I know that’s not the answer anyone wants, but it is safe and will work. Don’t feed your dog ketchup… it has a ton of sugar in it… if everyone keeps feeding their dog stuff with sugar in it, our dogs will be the next species succumbing to diabetes. Check the ingredients in dog treats… SUGAR!

See also  Seed Or Weed And Feed First

i may have overseeded a little on my lawn…maybe an overlap in a few places….should I just keep watering??

Watering those areas is a good idea. If the grass doesn’t look burnt in a few days you may have lucked out. Another good idea is to mow you lawn and bag the clippings to try and remove some of the product.

My newly(5-1-ll) seeded lawn is looking good where the grass is coming up(70% of intended area). unfortunately, weeds are taking over elsewhere. I’ve had a bag of weed n feed waiting to apply. Too fragile at this time(6-20-11) for the new grass sprouts to weed’n’feed? I’ve cut the lawn twice, bagging the weeds and grass. Another part of the situation is that I put down Schultz 10-10-10 fertilizer with the seed 5-1-11. Too early for the 25-0-08 Estate/Viper for that reason, too? This is a remake of a formerly uncared-for(15 years) 9000 square foot backyard which I cleared by hand over the winter and spring, then ‘Roundup-ed’ 4-10-11 before the 5-1-11 seeding/fertilizer.

How do I get rid of brown spots?

Hi Jesse, We’ve got an extensive article on watering your lawn. That might be a good place to start.

I have the same problem with brown spots. My wife just washes my underwear in hot water, tide, and a little bleach. My recurrent problem with brown spots eventually led me to changing to boxer briefs. Good luck!

You are f’ing weird, John

I put down weed and feed yesterday with no rain in forcast a 16-4-8 with Atrazine. It raind 9 hours later. Where do I go from here? Thanks ahead of time for for any help or suggstions.

wish I would have read this first. just applied wee&Feed Your advice is very helpful I will definetly bookmark it.

Very good tips and discussion. This will help me a lot as I try to reclaim our yard for the grass this spring!

Some good info here.

I actually opted to put down weed and feed first instead of the crabgrass killer since there does not seem to be much, if any crabgrass action on my lawn. Also, I misread the bag for the spreader settings and actually set it to about half of what it was supposed to be (I set it at 3 when it was supposed to be 5 3/4). Is it alright if I do another run through my yard with a lower setting since I didn’t really put down the full amount to begin with? It was about a week ago.

If the weed-n-feed is being effective, you’ll start to seed broadleaf weeds (like dandelions) turn brown in a few days. If that happens, I’d hold off on another application. You don’t want to over-apply and scorch your lawn. If you don’t see any improvement, I’d suggest a regular strength application in about a week.

Remember, I’m not a professional, so these tips are just coming from another homeowner (who wants a sweet looking lawn too). We’re getting ready to start a new series about a lawn service, and hopefully we can address questions like these.

Thanks for your quick reply and information. I’ll take note and go from there.

What happens if you put weed & feed on bermuda grass, and wanted to use up all the bag so you went back over places again? I see some of the broadleaf weeds starting to die. Some of the grass in some places may be turning brown. Bermuda usually revives itself doesn’t it if it is scorched right?

Should I spread weed and feed when there’s still dew on the leaves or should I wait until the lawn is totally dry?

Drew apply when wet either morning dew or wet the lawn manually

First timer and having no clue. I have watered my lawn two days in a row after I have applied weed & feed. Am I done for the year or what can I do?

Well, you’re probably in pretty good shape for the near term. You can apply Scotts weed and feed twice per year, I think (see the bag for directions). Hopefully you let the granules sit on the weeds for 24 hours before watering. That’s how weed and feed works (absorbed through the leaves).

What will weed and feed do to clover.

It will kill it…2-4d, dicamba, all those types of weed killers that are in weed and feeds also kill clover.

Will 18-0-9 weed and feed kill lespedzia which is a japanese clover. I love Lesco fertilizer as i use the 15-0-15 every season. I also would like to know is it safe on my centipede grass. THANK YOU

do you have to water after you use weed and feed?

No. In fact, you shouldn’t water for at least 48 hours. See watering instructions above. You should actually water immediately before weed and feed application, and then hold off for 48 hours afterwards. The granules have to sit on the leaves of the weeds to be an effective weed killer.

I just seeded my lawn, how long should I wait to weed and feed it??

Wait about 6 weeks after seeding. Water the seed/grass daily and make sure it gets reasonably strong before treating it with any type of fertilizer. Don’t overdo it. It’s easy to scorch new grass.

Can I distribute weed n feed over my lawn using a dust pan (& wearing gloves)? I dont have a seed spreader. I have a small yard. Thanks.

No, because you won’t get it even and you may end up burning areas of the lawn. Get a spreader, or borrow one?

I also have a small lawn. Ive been hand sowing mine for over 15 years, and i have a nice looking lawn. I don’t use anything except my hands.
Hand sowing allows me to drop extra granules directly on those tough dandelion weeds.

Same here. It is like feeding chickens. I could never walk fast enough with a spreader to do it right anyway. The older age thing.

how long should i wait between weed and feed applications?

Yes, I get many weeds, spurge, which I hate, burr weeds and of course dandelions. Then there are tons of what I can only describe as swamp looking grass. Uia more and a few days later there are all these things sticking up about 8″long with tips that look like a row of seed pods. The actual weed is round and flat. I killed them all once spraying every one with round up and applying weed and feed to the whole lawn. They pulled out nicelyafter that but came back with a vengeance the next year. How do I get rid of em?

How long to wait after spreading weed and feed, before you water it in.
You said hopefully 24 hours in your april 2nd reply, and 48 hours in your april 16th reply… Which is best? I spread mine yesterday, so I need to know now.

I applied Weed and feed 5 days ago, watered it on day 4, now it is suppose to rain for a week, should I mow now or wait until after the rain ( a week more?) also, should I mulch or mow?

I put down crabgrass preventer on Friday and want to put weed and feed down on the next Sunday, 9 days later. Is that okay?

@ Debbie- Make sure the crabgrass preventer didn’t contain fertilizer, or you might ” burn ” the grass. Anyone out there have proven suggestions for getting rid of Creeping Charlie in the spring or summer WITHOUT killing grass?

I always learn something new from you guys. Thanks and keep up the great work!

I just mowed the lawn and then spread weed n feed and then soaked the grass hand watering the entire lawn. I was told to do this! Now I’m laying in bed looked this up and I now found out I’ve done it all wrong! What should I do?? Weed n feed it again tomorrow since I soaked the grass??

I used weed and feed in the front lawn and in the back. Reading how it is not safe for pets I was concerned.I never used it before so am nervous about my dog going out there. It’s been like 20 hrs since I applied it. Let my dog out this morning and immediately washed her off in a small tub to be sure there was no chemical on her. Then thought that I was to spray the back lawn so the w and feed would soak in. Did I do the wrong thing soaking it in?

I did that too…. now the bastard weeds are growing like they have been injected with a growth hormone.

Can liquid be put on right after cutting lawn?

weed n feed that is.

There are so many different variations of weed & feed, example (28-0-04). What do the numbers stand for and what is your recommended variation?

My spreader gadget has its valves stuck open, so I had a few piles of weed & feed spilled on my lawn. I scooped and scraped and kicked and wiped, using hands and a rake and stuff. Not good enough! I exchanged my weeds for a few big brown spots! I could have watered it but that’d have spread and diluted the product, so maybe I should have brought out the shop vac!

It soon rained hard for days, but I guess it was too late. The stuff works but it’s no joke!

I worked as a landscape contractor for quite a few years and I’d like to suggest the following.

First, set your mower as high as it will go. The grass plant will be healthier and will generally shade out lower growing weeds. The grass plant will grow more slowly and thus require less mowing. Cutting short will cause the plant to grow faster (its trying to eat – photosynthesis requires leaf surface to happen). Lower height encourages weed growth as it allows sunlight to reach the weeds. As a rule, never remove more that 1/3 of the grass plant – 1/2 if its really out of control.

To treat for broad-leaf weeds, set the mower lower (don’t scalp it!) for one cut, cut the grass, then the next morning while the dew is still on the leaves, apply the dry granular weed control. Allow the grass to return to it’s normal height. The broad-leaf weeds should melt off.

For grass weeds such as crab grass, goose grass, etc. You need to apply a control product that prevents weed seed from germinating – usually referred to as a per-emergent. These are usually sold as part of a fertilizer mix (such as weed and feed) and that is not the way you want to go. Find one that does not include fertilizer and apply per directions. These control products have to go down before the seeds germinate! Don’t expect to be able to apply them in June and have the work – they won’t. Timing is everything. Read the directions and follow them.

Fertilizer should always be a separate application and should be tailored to the grass type and geographic area. Here in the transition zone the grass is usually Fescue. Fescues are low fertility grasses that should generally not be fertilized in the spring. There are exceptions but, they should be driven by soil tests, not commercials. Fescue lawns should usually receive no fertilizers in the spring and about half what is recommended on fertilizer bags in the fall to push root growth. On the other hand, blue grass is a high fertility lawn and requires quite a bit more fertilizer to do well.

Finally – use your local Cooperative Extension Service. Google it as in: “Maryland Cooperative Extension Service”. These guys are the experts and they will provide you – the home owner – with an incredible level of service for free or next to free that is specific to your area. Use them if you really want to grow something whether it’s a lawn or a garden.

Ditto- Tim-For sharing oyur Experience

But, most Want ot Cut their Grass Short because they’re LAXY- LIke getting a Short Hair Cut to save Money having to cut it so often ( Ave $15-$20 per HC)

A Trimming method is they way to go of Have both your hair and Lawn look nice and Healthy and igve it that Professional Manicured look

I Mo my lanw/Trim it ave 6x a month in Spring and 2x mo in Summer
And let it grow Thick for the Summer and keep it that way

When I do Mow_ I carry a Hand Spade to dig up weeds and put in a reg. Grocery Plastic Bag I carry with me….I watch others taht are just plain Lazy and just cut it short and fast and they wonder why its full of Weeds, Creeping Charlie etc..

Be Nice if Landscapers would Let you hire them ot cut your grass EOW- Every Other Week and Also Dig up Andy weeds with a hand spade at the same time -but they won’t.. They want a Full 30 wk contract to make More $.. even offering them to pay them 50% more to cut it EOW.. Won’t do it ! So I tell them Screw U and tell them to Leave ! and Go Con someone else !

I just aerated my lawn. I usually weed and feed in fall and spring. Your instructions say wait 4 weeks before aeration after application. Should I wait 4 weeks before I use weed and feed since I just aerated?

Just applied weed and feed this morning. I set my spreader at the recommended number. The bag was to go 15000 square feet, but did not go nearly that amount. I’m afraid the spreader was spreading too much. I may end up scorching the lawn if too much was applied. What is your recommendation if there may be too much applied. I don’t want to waste the product either if I start watering the heck out of it . On the other hand, I may end up with a damaged lawn.

I bought the weed and feed…….but i cant find my spreader recommendation setting on the bag…..i have an Earthway rotary spreader…….the bag had a rotary spreader setting listed on it but it was 3.5……my spreader doesnt have that setting….first setting is a 5………..

What do I do. My husband spread the weed and feed all over my floor beds.
Many plants are looking like they will die. What can I do?

Nothing start over you have to be extremely careful with any kind of chemicals

I had a yard guy that started doing that to my flowers(he got successful after a few years and started rushing/cutting corners)… upon the advice of a local garden center, I’d water the flowers when ever I suspected my yard guy had gotten them with the weed spray. I was able to save 75% of my flowers from him before I had to say adios after 5 years.

If you can get the flowers soon enough the killer will have less impact – it’s easier to try to water it out then buy all new perennials. If the yard is such that you need to use weed killer I’d recommend put covers on the plants – I use painting drop clothes or my frost plant covers

Will bio weed and feed 9-0-0 hurt the trees, or can I spread close to them or on them?

Will weed and feed effect the paint on the car?

It killed my plants and the yucca are dead! The weeds are growing great!! What’s wrong with this?

We have St Augustine grass that is now getting a lot of weeds. What weed killer is best for St Augustine grass and can it be applied in August?

Ive got heaps of clover on my lawn and I bought a feed n weed. My question is, do I need to mow the lawn first , then apply the feed n weed? Or do I have to wait a few days after I mow the lawn then apply the feed n weed,?

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Will weed and feed kill monkey/mondo grass?

We put Weed and Feed down yesterday. However we also have crabgrass when should we put down crabgrass preventer?

Do I have to keep my dogs off the lawn for two days after I put down some weed and feed? I know I have to wait a day or so before I can water it

If dandelions are actively flowering is it best to pick flowers before applying weed and feed?

It’s my luck that I weed and feed every year. I try all the advice. You know how to spread, when to water, right time of season… I think everytime I go get a new bag it says feed the weeds. I think I am ready to give up . If I finally get it right it’ll kill all the weeds and I won’t have a blade of grass. I guess maybe I don’t have a green thumb.

How long after applying weed & feed do I wait to mow? Thank you

I put down weed and feed just after dawn about a week and half ago. It seemed to have killed some weeds, but not all. Can I apply again sometime this week?

I just used a 17-17-17 fertilizer on newly planted grass been cut 5 times. I have alot of weeds but grass looks pretty good. Can I still apply weed and feed although I just fertilized? I really want those weeds gone and there the type that weed and feed would kill. Or should I wait or is there another option . It’s quite a large lawn by the way. Thanks!

So after application on wet grass, it has not rained for 5 days and I am ready to mow. Should I water it in before I mow to avoid the risk of the granuals being sucked up off of the lawn?

This schedule works for me
Day 1 – Mow lawn like normal
Day 2 – Water lawn if it has been dry
Day 3 – Apply to wet grass – no rain in forecast
Day 4 – See dand. and plantain wilt
Day 5 – See clover wilt
Day 6 – Water deep
Day 7 – Re-apply to spots that were missed

hi, I would like to know that my grass is only 6weak old and had lots weed in there so can I use weed and feed or it’s to early because grass is not too old?

How much feed and weed do i add per litre? I

Is it ok to put down fescue and fertilizer on the same day and water them in?

I put down weed n feed 7 days ago. I did not realize my sprinklers are not turning on…needed a new pump and am still waiting for the electrician to finish the job. Is the weed n feed still going to work? It has not rained, I’m in FL and it’s been in the 80’s. Thanks for any info!

I have some actually lots of blue violet weeds, will the weed and feed kill them if I apply them now. I know I am a little late as it is already spring. Or should I get a specialist to come in and do it.

I am in NY and keen to get some guidance.

Do you have a resource for identifying weeds? We are new to the state of MO and the region and I’ve got a tall, single blade grass with crazy active rhizomes. I’ve tried digging them up, I know, those optimists! Any thoughts on what it could be?
I don’t mow my lawn for the grass, but for weeds as do all of my neighbors.

It’s the second week of June, HOT and MUGGY. is it too late to apply weed & feed? should it be done in the morning after a watering or when would be the best time?

Is raking before/after recommended or does it even come into play?

I am not using weed killer from this point. I feel that it stays in the soil for much longer than we know, thus preventing premium grass growth. I will just feed the lawn well before seeding. My aim is to crowd out the weeds with healthy grass, putting time in each week to manually keep ahead of the weeds.

The only grass I have is where my dog does her potty business. I work, so she has to be able to get to it while I’m gone. Do I need to board her for the two days after I apply the Weed and Feed, before I water, then bring her home?

Bought 30 0 3 have crab grass and clover in Wisconsin think I should apply now do to white clover and crabgrass. Well established lawn

Hi`i`m in Florida, can i use weed and feed for Lawns in my Vegetable Garden

Good lord, no. Unless want in your garden is grass……
Weed and feed is a broadcast weed KILLER. Meaning generally, anything with a leaf unlike grass is fair game.
You don’t want toxins like “weed control” in your garden.
Fertilizer only and corn meal based pre-emergant is the only thing that should even come close to your garden.
And the pre-emergant can ONLY be used AFTER your vegie seeds themselves have germinated.
For fertilizer, I use a bulk granular that dissolves in water. I have a designated 40 gallon plastic trash can I mix up and drench the rows and the plants using a 5 gallon pail and/or a large coffee can.
You can side dress plants with granular as well.
Mulch, landscape fabric, new paper, grass clippings, straw…..etc can be used to keep aisles and around plants weed free.(with in reason) but gardening is a hobby, experimenting is half the fun. See what works for you!

The directions on my bag of Bonus S weed and feed state that it should be applied when lawn is dry and that you should water the product in after application. Did they change the product? Any thoughts on why the manufacturers rec is so different. Thanks. ch

What time of day do you apply weed and feed

My sister gave me a ziplock bag of weed and feed. Sheesh. Wish I’d read this first. So I sprinkled weed n feed on my yard by hand. So far it’s just dirt and weeds. I haven’t planted grass as of yet. So my dirt was dry upon application. And still is dry. Should I just rake it all again and try to scrap the weed n feed? I can still see all the granules. I really want to plant grass soon. Any tips for planting grass? Thank you for your great advice. Much appreciated!!

What Fertilizer to Use After Overseeding [5 Tips to Feed Grass Seed]

After overseeding your lawn, apply a lawn starter fertilizer to provide grass seedlings with the nutrients they need to establish themselves. Do not substitute lawn starter with a fertilizer meant for mature grass. Mature grass fertilizer doesn’t contain the nutrients new grass needs to develop roots. Similarly, avoid using “weed and feed” fertilizers. These products will kill your grass seedlings.

Table of Contents

5 Tips for Fertilizing Your Lawn After Overseeding

Overseeding a lawn takes time and money. Naturally, you want to get the most out of your efforts. In order to ensure your grass seedlings survive and thrive, it’s essential to follow the proper methods. Employ these tricks to make sure your grass seed roars to life.

Use a Lawn Starter Fertilizer

A lawn starter fertilizer is formulated so that of the three main ingredients in fertilizer (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) phosphorus is the most abundant nutrient. This is important because phosphorus drives grass root growth. A lawn starter fertilizer will encourage your grass seedlings to take root quickly. This will make them hardy and established, whether you overseed in late spring or fall.

  • Use this lawn starter fertilizer for new grass seed.
  • Lawn starter fertilizer has high phosphorus content to promote seedling root growth.
  • Do not use a fertilizer designed for mature grass. These often contain little to no phosphorus.

A standard fertilizer used for established lawns does not make for a good lawn starter. These formulas contain very little phosphorus because mature grass has already established roots. Some fertilizers for established warm-season grass lawns even contain no phosphorus at all. If you don’t use a lawn starter fertilizer on your seedlings, they won’t develop strong roots and may die.

  • Great starter fertilizer for new seed or sod.
  • You can also use Pennington UltraGreen for overseeding or on an existing lawn.
  • 5% Iron promotes a deep, thick, lush lawn.

Avoid Weed and Feed Products

Weed and feed products are a death knell for grass seed. This is due to the fact that most weed and feed combines fertilizer with pre-emergent herbicide. This type of herbicide attacks all types of plant seeds, killing them as they germinate. If you spread weed and feed on a lawn that has been overseeded in the past 8 weeks, it can kill all the grass seedlings there.

  • Weed and feed products contain pre-emergent herbicides that kill grass seeds as they sprout.
  • Do not apply weed and feed to a lawn that has been overseeded in the past 8 weeks.
  • Do not overseed if you have applied weed and feed in the past 12 weeks.

The herbicide in weed and feed is designed to linger in the soil for up to 3 months. If you have already applied weed and feed, don’t overseed your lawn for at least 12 weeks. The herbicide in the soil will attack every type of grass seed.

Dethatch Before You Overseed

A thick layer of thatch forms a barrier between the grass and the soil. If you spread grass seed on a lawn with heavy thatch, the seed will not reach the soil. Without soil contact, your grass will not sprout and establish itself. Check the thatch layer in your yard and dethatch if necessary before seeding.

  • Thick thatch prevents grass seed from reaching the soil where it can root.
  • Rent a dethatcher or power rake to remove thatch buildup before overseeding.
  • Thatch soaks up water and fertilizer, robbing nutrients and moisture from the soil and grass seed.

In addition to preventing your grass seedlings from taking root, thick thatch also acts like a sponge, absorbing water and fertilizer before it can penetrate the soil. Fertilizing on thick thatch will be far less effective. Removing thatch prior to overseeding helps you deliver more lawn starter fertilizer to your grass seeds.

Aerate Your Lawn

Compacted soil makes it difficult for grass seedlings to take root. Not only that, but fertilizers have a difficult time penetrating hard soil. It’s a good idea to aerate the soil so that it absorbs fertilizer and feeds your grass seeds.

  • Hard soil prevents grass seeds from rooting.
  • Compact soils struggle to absorb nutrients from fertilizer.
  • After dethatching, aerate your soil to make feeding your grass seed easier.

Aeration goes hand-in-hand with dethatching. A recently dethatched yard is ripe for aeration. If you mow, dethatch, and aerate, your entire lawn is in the perfect condition for overseeding.

Boost Seed Growth with Compost

Compost is an excellent natural fertilizer, but there’s one catch—the nitrogen in compost is contained in uric acid, and uric acid evaporates quickly when exposed to light. So, a thin layer of compost spread over your lawn will quickly lose most of its fertilizing power. There is a solution though. If your lawn was recently aerated it has thousands of tiny holes. You can spread compost over a recently aerated lawn to fill these holes and inject nitrogen-rich fertilizer into the soil.

  • Compost is a great natural fertilizer that boosts grass seed growth.
  • Only spread compost on your lawn if it has recently been aerated. Compost will retain more of its nitrogen content when it is used to fill aeration holes.
  • Rake a thin layer of compost over your grass seeds—it may lose most of its nutrients but it will serve as a protective layer to keep seeds moist and safe from birds.

It’s a great idea to spread compost after aerating and overseeding. The compost will fill the aeration holes to funnel nutrients in the soil. Excess compost on the top of your grass seeds will keep them protected from drying out.

Is it OK to Fertilize After Overseeding?

It is perfectly safe to fertilize after overseeding your lawn. In fact, applying a specialized lawn starter fertilizer will increase the number of grass seedlings that survive to adulthood. For best results, apply a starter fertilizer within 3 days over overseeding. This will contribute to a lush lawn.

When Can I Fertilize My Lawn After Seeding?

If you’ve recently overseeded your lawn, there’s no reason to wait to apply fertilizer. The sooner you spread a lawn starter fertilizer on your yard, the sooner it will begin to feed your grass seedlings. If you like, you apply fertilizer the minute you’re done spreading your grass seed.

Do You Fertilize Before or After Seeding?

You can fertilize your lawn before or after overseeding. Both tactics work to feed your new grass seed. It’s best to fertilize within 3 days of seeding. This means you can spread your starter fertilizer a few days before you lay down your seed or a few days after. Both are far more beneficial for a healthy lawn than going without fertilizer.

Can You Put Fertilizer Down With Grass Seed?

If you want to make your seeding and fertilizing processes more efficient, you can spread your grass seed and lawn starter simultaneously. Simply measure out the correct amount of seed and fertilizer for the square footage you are overseeding, mix the fertilizer and seed thoroughly, and add them both to this lawn spreader. Make sure to spread the seed and fertilizer evenly across your lawn, following an east-west pattern followed by a north-south pattern for proper coverage.

When to Fertilize New Grass for Best Results

Growing grass generally doesn’t take an agonizing amount of effort. But cultivating a new lawn requires a certain level of diligence to give grass seed the best chance to germinate and thrive. It is also important for roots to grow deep into the soil in order to form a well-established lawn. In this article I’ll explain when to fertilize new grass so that you can enjoy the best results.

The key benefit of a well-established lawn is that it will be hardy and more resistant to inclement conditions.

Fertilizer provides grass seed or newly germinated grass with concentrated nutrients. While you could introduce fertilizer at any time (or not at all), fertilizing grass at just the right times in the growth cycle can put your grass into “hulk mode” – if you will. The nutrients available in fertilizers also come in varying percentages that can be more beneficial for different stages of growth. Choosing a fertilizer that is too highly concentrated can actually burn your lawn!

Why Should I Fertilize New Grass?

Fertilizers contain essential nutrients that can improve overall soil health in your area. The main nutrients in fertilizer are potassium (K), nitrogen (N), and phosphorus (P). Healthy soil is more resistant to weeds, pests, fungus, erosion, runoff, and patchy grass. Soil that lacks the essential nutrients can be difficult growing medium.

That being said, too much can lead to burning and using the wrong fertilizer can have far-reaching effects on the soil in your area.

When the ground is saturated with the nutrients found in fertilizer, it can end up leaking through to the water table and lead to runoff. Runoff of fertilizer chemicals has been found to be responsible for toxic algae blooms in local ponds and lakes that are harmful to people and pets. For this reason, fertilizers are often highly regulated and often only certain amounts can be purchased at a time.

How to Choose the Best Fertilizer for New Grass

There are two main types of fertilizer to start with: regular (or slow-release) fertilizer and starter (or quick release) fertilizer. Consider the dietary needs of humans in different age groups: the needs of a baby are far different from an adult.

See also  Organic Weed And Seed

“Weed and Feed” fertilizers contain herbicides such as corn gluten to prevent weeds from germinating. This is an important fertilizer to take note of and avoid when planting new grass seed because most of these will also prevent your grass seed from germinating!

My Recommended Starter Fertilizer for New Grass

Crabgrass is everywhere in my area, so my favorite fertilizer to use when seeding a new section of lawn is Scott’s Turf Builder Starter Fertilizer + Crabgrass Preventer.

Unlike many other weed and feed products, this fertilizer does not harm new grass as it germinates, but it does (at least in my experience) successfully block crabgrass and other common weeds for 4-6 weeks to give your new grass time to establish itself. One bag goes a long way too.

Understanding The Nutrients in Lawn Fertilizer

There are three main nutrients in lawn fertilizer. Every fertilizer has a different ratio of these nutrients, and these ratios are on fertilizer packaging as a set of three numbers separated by dashes.

The sequence of numbers indicates the amount of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, respectively and are thus known as NPK ratios.

If you see three numbers on a bag of lawn fertilizer, those numbers will be listed in this order:

Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium

A soil test can help you determine what type of fertilizer will best support your lawn’s health, just make sure you buy a kit that goes beyond simple PH levels and measures these three nutrient levels like this one.

What These 3 Key Nutrients Do to Support New Grass
  • Nitrogen is important for the leaf growth you see above ground and helps grass look greener.
  • Phosphorus is responsible for promoting root growth below the ground and is important for getting a lawn established.
  • Potassium prevents disease and makes the grass more resilient.

New grass seeds need a starter fertilizer that has a higher level of phosphorus and nitrogen that is quick-release, thus readily available for the seeds to absorb.

Quick-release nitrogen also helps seeds absorb more potassium. Some areas actually restrict phosphorus usage exclusively to those starting new lawns.

Fertilizer Ratios for Established Lawns

An established lawn thrives best with a fertilizer that is high in nitrogen. Mature lawns don’t really need much potassium or phosphorus, so you will look for a ratio with a large first number and smaller second and third number. For example, a 30-0-0 or a 27-3-3 ratio would be most appropriate for an established lawn that you want to green up and look beautiful.

Starter Fertilizer Ratios for New Grass Seed

A good starter fertilizer for new lawns should be closer to a 21 – 22 – 4 ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and those nutrients should be quick-release so they’re accessible to your seedlings right away to help your new lawn establish itself as quickly as possible.

Potash commonly found in soil is a source of potassium, so it is common for the levels of potassium in fertilizer to be very low.

When to Fertilize New Grass

It is important to make sure that your soil has the appropriate nutrients for new grass seed prior to dispersing the seed itself.

So, after preparing your soil for seed or sod, the last step before planting is to fertilize the soil with a starter fertilizer. This can be done before you lay seed or sod, or at the same time.

After you apply starter fertilizer, don’t reapply it. The ratios of nutrients can actually be harmful and burn established grass. I recommend using a traditional, nitrogen-rich organic fertilizer 6-8 weeks after planting new grass.

While you may be eager to fertilize again to encourage growth, fertilizing too often is harmful. It can burn your grass, leach into the water table, and more. It’s important to wait a minimum of four to six weeks before another application of fertilizer, and I recommend 6-8 weeks.

My Process for Seeding a New Lawn

  1. Dethatch and Aerate the lawn if needed.
  2. If lawn does not need to be dethatched, use an iron rake to loosen the soil and remove dead grass.
  3. Remove any dead grass from the area you will be seeding.
  4. Apply starter fertilizer evenly across the area you will be seeding.
  5. Apply a generous amount of grass seed that is appropriate for your area and the growing conditions of your lot.
  6. Use the back of a leaf rake to gently work the seed into contact with the loosened soil
  7. Apply 1/4″ – 1/2″ of compost loosely over the grass seed to retain moisture and provide nutrients to the new grass seedlings
  8. Water to keep compost and seedlings moist until well established.
  9. After grass seedlings are established, water less frequently and more deeply to promote root growth.
  10. Mow once grass seedlings are about 3″ tall, removing 1/2″ – 3/4″ of grass blades with a sharp mower blade. Bag these clippings and remove.
  11. Mow again once grass gets to 3″ again, removing no more than 1″.
  12. Apply nitrogen-rich organic fertilizer 6-8 weeks after seeding (optional).
Should You Fertilize Again in the Fall?

An application of a fertilizer that has a modest amount of slow-release nitrogen in the fall can help to bolster your grass before the coming winter. It’s important to make sure that this is done well before the first frost, so no later than November 1st for southern states and an even earlier cutoff for northern states.

Fertilizing with nitrogen before snow can create snow mold and kill your lawn which landscaper Roger Cooke discusses in the video below:

When spring rolls around again, if you already have an established lawn, then the best time to fertilize will be when grass has greened up and you’ve been able to mow a couple of times. Do this about 6 weeks after overseeding. Use regular fertilizer that has a higher ratio of nitrogen.

In late spring and early summer, if your lawn has been a little bit neglected and needs a boost then you can apply a slow-release fertilizer in 45 to 60 day intervals.

My Preferred Slow-Release Organic Lawn Fertilizers

I use either Purely Organic Lawn Food or Milorganite on my lawn – both are effective organic options.

Compost is the best and most natural fertilizer that you can have available at your fingertips, and I try to apply a thin layer of compost to my entire lawn at least once every two years.

Using a dark, rich, and loose compost at least once every three or four years in the early fall can increase the nutrients in your soil naturally.

My town has an organic composting center where residents bring leaf and grass clippings, and residents are able to enjoy free screened compost in whatever quantity they need.

If you don’t have access to this, contact your local nursery – they can probably deliver screened compost to you. If you have a small yard, split a delivery with your neighbors.

How Do I Fertilize New Grass Seed?

Start by weeding the area that you will be planting in, then gently rake the top layer of soil to loosen it.

This is when to fertilize new grass seed. You can apply fertilizer to the soil, or you can do it at the same time as while you spread grass seed.

Spread your grass seed; a popular method is using a broadcast spreader.

Cover the seeds with a very fine layer of soil either by raking in one direction or sprinkling a little layer of soil using the same broadcast spreader. A very light watering is okay, just make sure not to uncover the seeds from their blanket of soil.

Growing, Growing, Gone

In summary, a lawn starter fertilizer high in phosphorus and quick-releasing nitrogen is ideal for starting a lawn from seed.

Regular slow-release fertilizer that is rich in nitrogen is best for planting sod or giving your existing lawn a boost. It is best to apply starter fertilizer just before, or at the same time as planting grass seed. Follow-up at least four to six weeks later with a regular fertilizer.

More frequent application can be harmful to your lawn and the environment, so don’t overdo it.

A final application of fertilizer in the fall before the first frost can also provide a beneficial boost for your grass through the winter and lead to more growth come spring. I like to use a phosphorus-heavy fertilizer in the fall to encourage deep root growth. This way my lawn is ready for an organic nitrogen treatment in the spring to green up beautifully.

Answered: When to Fertilize New Grass

Growing a thick and lush lawn that will be the envy of your neighborhood isn’t as complicated as it may seem.

Most grasses require only a small amount of maintenance to grow quite robust.

Properly timing the application of fertilizer can give you the most “bang for your buck.” It can also give your grass a boost in growth without burning your lawn or leading to harmful runoff.

You May Also Enjoy:

by Sarah The Lawn Chick

I’ve learned to love caring for my lawn naturally and enjoying it daily. On this blog I’ll share some of my best tips and tutorials to help you make your lawn the best on the block!

10 thoughts on “ When to Fertilize New Grass for Best Results ”

Hi Sarah,
I overseeded two weeks or more ago and am just now starting to see some of it grow. I didn’t fertilize immediately before or while planting. Is it too late to apply any fertilizer of any sort, starter, etc? For full disclosure of the situation, I had applied a weed and feed probably 5 to 6 weeks before planting seed, not realizing part of my lawn was only weed, which resulted in lots of brown, bare areas! That’s why I overseeded with Kentucky 31 Tall Fescue later. I’ve been watering everyday since planting.

Thank you!

Great question. The best time to fertilize new grass grown from seed is with a good starter fertilizer high in phosphorous right when you sow the seed, but if you missed that window and your grass has already germinated I’d recommend holding off until your new grass seedlings are about 1.5 inches tall. At that time, apply a good all-around lawn fertilizer that’s high in nitrogen.

Applying starter fertilizer to new grass risks burning your young seedlings, which is why it’s typically best to add those nutrients to the soil at the time of sowing your seed. This way the nutrients are accessible to your new shoots of grass, but have soaked in with your regular watering as you wait for your seed to germinate.

As I say in the article above, anyone who uses starter fertilizer when spreading seed should wait about 6 weeks to fertilize again, but in your circumstance (which is one a lot of people find themselves in), I’d suggest applying a good all-around lawn fertilizer when your new grass seedlings are almost an inch and a half in height. Something organic and slow release is the safest option as you won’t risk burning your new grass with that, even if you over-apply by mistake. If you choose to go with something synthetic, go light with the first application (0.5 – 1 pound of Nitrogen per 1,000 square feet). You can read my recommendations for organic lawn fertilizers right here, and if you’re not sure of the square footage of your yard, here’s a list of some online tools you can use to get accurate measurements of different areas of your lawn.

Hi, I’ve got a new lawn that was planted about 3 weeks ago. I have been watering on a regular basis. It’s coming in nice and thick in spots but other spots it seems like it’s just starting to grow.or even some spots bare. Is there something I can put on it to boost it up. Or leave as is… thanks for any advice

Thanks for the comment. When you’re seeding a new lawn it’s pretty common to get some spots here and there that are thin or bare. This is something you’ll just want to spot-treat with some more seed and peat moss to get those spots to fill in – that’s my best advice. If you’re growing a grass that spreads via rhizomes, the thin areas should take care of themselves over time … but I’d still probably get some of the same seed you used to patch the bare spots and get some grass growing there too.

This happens to everyone when seeding a new lawn – it’s part of the process. Wind, rain, birds, a funny bump with your spreader, or just a heavy hand with the rake when raking in your seed can all cause some sections to get a little less seed than others. Patch ’em now and in 3 more weeks you’ll have a beautiful lawn! Good luck

We have been following our local seed & garden store’s advice on a new lawn- no fertilizer till 3rd mowing., then apply starter fertilizer. So far it looks beautiful. They said to then apply a regular fertilizer after 6 more weeks. As we just read your advice and it differs should we do anything different since the starter fertilizer was applied later? What fertilizer should we switch to?

Thanks for the comment and I’m so glad your new lawn is coming in well. If you’re having good results based on their advice I’d probably recommend you stick with it. 6 Weeks after you applied starter fertilizer sounds right to me.

Personally, I like to go organic/slow-release with my regular lawn fertilizer so I’d follow-up what you’ve done with something along those lines. I like Milorganite, Purely Organic Lawn Food, or Espoma’s organic lawn fertilizer – any of those will work well for you. Follow the application rate on the bag, and if you want to get an accurate square footage size on different areas of your lawn, these tools can help you do that.

We have a new sod laid down by our builder in our new build home at the end of September in Ottawa, Ontario. I am trying to water once every day since it isn’t too warm anymore here. When is it a good time to over-seed or fertilize the new grass using Fall food before Winters and how long should I wait before the grass is established? The temperatures have started to lower a bit already. Thanks.

For cool-season lawns I like to do my final fertilizer application of the year (fall lawn food) in late October or Early November. Since you’re pretty far north I’d say any time between now and the end of the month is fine.

Since it’s brand new sod my guess is you won’t have to overseed right away, so you can probably do that next year – either in the spring or (ideally) in the fall.

Hi Sarah;
I also missed the fertilizer at the time of new seed, and now grass is about 1″ tall, should I apply “Scotts starter fertilizer (since its first time I am planning to grow grass) or just the one you suggested with high nitrogen ?

If your grass is growing well I’d probably hold off and give it a shot in the arm with one of the organic fertilizers I mentioned above in the article. I would apply it after you do the first mow, once your grass is 3″ or taller. Bag those clippings, then feed it with the slow-release fertilizer. At this time of year a fall fertilizer is a good alternative to those I mentioned above (though they’ll work fine as well). Some of the fall lawn fertilizers have some extra phosphorus to help with root development, which may help since you skipped the starter fertilizer with that.

Sometimes a quick-release starter fertilizer after your young grass is already growing can burn it, which is why I recommend applying something else after your seedlings are more established.