Improve your success when planting seeds by avoiding these common seed-starting mistakes and errors such as planting too deep, starting too soon or watering too much. In-ground marijuana crops give us the opportunity to offer our marijuana plants full freedom for their development. In this post we show you all the n
Most Common Seed-Starting Mistakes
Seeds are magic to gardens. Tuck them in soil, add a little water and you are on the way to a beautiful bloom or tasty harvest. Start seeds indoors to jump-start your garden. Whether or not you have experience starting seeds, you will improve your success by avoiding these common errors.
Seed-Starting Mistake #1: Catalog Hypnosis
It is tough to resist the beautiful pictures and glowing words in seed catalogs. Even experienced gardeners struggle to resist the allure. That is the first mistake most seed starters make: ordering too many seeds. A simple secret to success with seed-starting is exercising self-restraint. If you are new to the practice, do not start too many different types of seeds. Stick with simple ones, such as Tomato, Basil, Zinnia or Cosmos.
Seed-Starting Mistake #2: Starting Too Soon
In many regions, sowing seeds gives you a chance to get your hands dirty when it is too cold to garden outdoors. Do not start your seeds too soon. Most plants are ready to shift into the great outdoors in 4-6 weeks. Learn more about perfect timing for seeds.
Seed-Starting Mistake #3: Planting Too Deep
Read seed packets carefully, for detailed information about how deep to plant seeds. The rule of thumb is to plant seeds at a depth equal to two or three times their width. It is better to plant seeds too shallow than too deep. Some seeds, such as certain Lettuces or Snapdragon, need light to germinate and should not be covered at all.
Seed-Starting Mistake #4: Not Labeling Trays
Once you start sowing seeds and get dirt on your fingers, you will not want to stop and make labels. Before planting, prepare labels and add them to containers as soon as the seeds go into soil. Otherwise, it can be tough to tell seedlings apart. Be sure to include sowing date on your labels.
Seed-Starting Mistake #5: Soil Is Not Warm
Seed packets specify the temperature seeds need to germinate – soil temperature, not air temperature. Most seed germinate at 78ºF. You will have sure success if you use a waterproof root-zone heating mat. Once you start germinating seeds in soil, aim to keep soil temperature in the 65-70ºF range.
Seed-Starting Mistake #6: Too Little Light
In the warmest regions of the country, there is enough ambient light in a south-facing window to grow stocky seedlings. In northern areas where winter brings persistent cloud cover, you will need supplemental lights. Purchase or build an illuminated plant stand to start seedlings. For stocky, healthy seedlings, provide 14-16 hours of light daily. Suspend lights 2-3 inches above seedlings.
Seed-Starting Mistake #7: Water Woes
How much water do seeds need? For seeds to germinate, you need to keep the growing soil damp but not too wet. Learning how to water seedlings is pivotal for success. Many seed starters cover the container to keep soil moist until seeds germinate. Once seeds sprout, do not miss a watering. Unlike established plants, seedlings do not have an extensive root system they can rely on for vital moisture. At the same time, it is important not to overwater and let seedlings sit in water.
Seed-Starting Mistake #8: Not Enough Pampering
Seedlings are delicate creatures. They need daily attention and lots of tender loving care, especially when they are young. If you cannot monitor seedlings daily, checking on germination, soil moisture, temperature, and lights, you will definitely reduce your chances of success. Seedlings do not survive neglect.
Learn More About Starting Seeds
Not sure you want to start seedlings? Learn why you should consider starting your own seeds.
Seedlings must be prepared for the transition to life in the garden. Learn how to strengthen seedlings before planting.
Growing marijuana in the ground
Growing cannabis outdoors in the ground is undoubtedly the easiest, cheapest and most environment-friendly way of growing marijuana, since with very limited means you can get great yields. The materials needed to grow weed this way are:
- Quality seeds. As the available space is large, you can use both regular and feminised seeds, since you won’t make the final transplant in the ground until sexing your plants.
- 0.25 litre pots and 11 litre pots.
- Quality soil, containing vermicompost, compost, perlite and black peat or coco coir, like Bio Bizz Light Mix and Soft mix by Bioaigua. (vermicompost). or liquid bat guano. (natural solid alginates). , pyrethrum or any other organic insecticide . (fungicide and plant defense booster). .
- 5 litre sprayer. and pH reducer.
Growing marijuana step by step
When you start growing you should take into account the final size that you want for your plants. If you want the largest possible plants, the best is to start growing at mid or late March. You will get plants between 250 and 350 cm in height, depending on the strain. If you do not want them to grow that much, then you should plant them a little later.
Germinate the seeds and once the small roots can be seen, transplant them to a 9×9 cm (0.25 l) pot with moistened substrate. During the next few days water them only with tap water (pH adjusted at 6) when you see the soil dry. Place the pots under the sunlight and wait for the small seedlings to start growing, which may take 5-10 days. Throughout this process the plants should be exposed to full sun, otherwise you will get very tall and weak plants.
After approximately three weeks, your plants should be about 20 cm tall and have about three pairs of true leafs. At this point, remove the plant from the pot if it has a good rootball. You can then transplant your plants to an 11 litre pot. Prepare the soil mix containing 80% of the recommended soil + 20% of vermicompost + 1/2 kg of bat guano and 250 grams of Nutrihemp per 100 litres of soil. Mix it thoroughly and proceed to transplant.
During the first two weeks after transplanting, water your plants whenever the soil is dry, always using tap water. You only need to add the required acid to adjust the pH, lowering it at pH=6.
By the fourth week after transplanting (eighth weeks after having started growing the plants, early June) you should start sexing the plants, as they reach full sexual maturity at this moment. This should be done if you have used regular seeds, ignore this step otherwise.
We are not going to expand on how to sex marijuana plants here. We recommend that you read our post on how to sex your cannabis plants.
Once you have identified the gender of your plants, it’s time to transplant them in the ground. You will have to prepare the site by making a hole about 50 cm deep and wide. Add 20 litres of vermicompost, one Nutrihemp bag and 0.5 kg of bat guano to the soil you get from making this hole. If the soil is clayey, add a couple of spadefuls of river sand to enhance drainage and 30 litres of the soil used in transplants to prevent compaction. Mix all ingredients and pour the mixture into the hole. Transplant the plants and immediately after that prune the apical areas from the seventh or eighth pair of true leafs.
After this, just keep watering the plants with tap water – pH=6 – once or twice a week, always making sure that the soil dries out between waterings.
From mid-July, anticipating the onset of flowering, provide the soil with more nutrients. Prepare the soil around your plants and add a mixture of 20 litres of vermicompost, 1/4 of a Nutrihemp bag and 1/2 Kg of bat guano per plant. Mix the nutrients added to the soil in the ground and make a slight dip or depression in the soil around the base of each plant so that water and nutrients are better retained and won’t directly run off.
Until the end of flowering, always water them with tap water – pH=6 – although if you stimulate their flowering with an activator like Green Hope, your plants will definitely appreciate that.
When flowering begins – mid-July or early August (later for pure Sativas) – you can prune the lower parts of the plants so the top buds get bigger, achieving better yields.
Buds will get bigger and bigger, so it is time to protect the plants from strong winds and storms; use stakes to fix the branches of your plants so they can support the weight of their buds.
When 80% of the pistils have ripened (turned orange-brown) it is the right time to harvest. However, we always recommend using a magnifying glass to check the trichomes, ensuring that you choose the right time to harvest your plants.
For further information on this subject, visit our post about harvesting marijuana.
Marihuana grown in the ground
Weed grown using this method gives a yield of 500 to 1000 grams per plant.
Aspects to consider to grow weed in the ground properly
- The distance between plants should be at least 2 meters otherwise, they can’t fully develop.
- It is preferable that you also grow other varieties of plants in your garden, as they will help to create a suitable microclimate as well as enhancing the biological richness of the environment. It will also help us conceal our secret crop.
- If your garden is very sunny and it’s very warm throughout the day, it would be a good idea to refresh the plant leafs by spraying them with water in the mornings and afternoons/evenings, always before the onset of the flowering phase, especially during June and July, when there is more proliferation of red spider mites.
- If your garden is very exposed to strong winds, stones and ropes will be necessary to support or fix your plants, preventing them from falling.
Phytosanitary treatments for marihuana
Outdoor crops are exposed to numerous pests, so it’s important to carry out biological preventive treatments that will prevent both pests and the need to use chemical insecticides/fungicides later on. Some of these chemicals are toxic treatments, which are harmful for the health of people, animals and natural environment.
In-ground marijuana plant flowering
You should start pest control when you transplant your plants to the 11-litre pot, using neem-based insecticides or pyrethrum mixed with propolis to prevent red spider mites, whiteflies and aphids, as well as several types of fungi.
Treat the plants every 15 days until the end of July, at which time you should begin the next treatment. Then you should combine a weekly spray of Bacillus Thuringiensis – to avoid the appearance of dangerous caterpillars – with a spray of propolis to prevent powdery mildew. Continue with these treatments until two weeks before harvesting.
It is important to do all treatments, waterings and transplants early or late in the day to avoid heat excess, that could damage your plants.
Early Maroc grown in the ground
The articles published by Alchimiaweb, S.L. are reserved for adult clients only. We would like to remind our customers that cannabis seeds are not listed in the European Community catalogue. They are products intended for genetic conservation and collecting, in no case for cultivation. In some countries it is strictly forbidden to germinate cannabis seeds, other than those authorised by the European Union. We recommend our customers not to infringe the law in any way, we are not responsible for their use.
Growing marijuana on terraces
Growing marijuana in plant pots
Growing marijuana in grow tents
Growing marijuana with energy saving lamps
Comments in “Growing marijuana in the ground” (21)
Can i grow my feminized seeds indoor with all mix and then make a hole in the forest where i add again all mix and let the grow with that and the normal ground of the forest I already saw the mix that you recommended but was wandering if this works as well. And can i top or fim the plants outdoors ? Thanks Matt
Tim Alchimia 2021-03-31
Hi Matt, thanks for your comment and questions. That’s all good, start the seeds indoors and when you think they’re big enough transplant them to the woods. I’d recommend digging your hole and filling it with the All Mix a couple of weeks before you plan to plant them out, to allow the soil to settle, your plants will thank you for it later. Depending on when you plant out and on the composition of the forest soil, you may need to add some more nutrition later in the season to avoid nutrient deficiencies, in which case I would recommend top-dressing with organic fertiliser as soon as you start to see the lower leaves yellowing. And yes, you can top or FIM the plants outdoors without any problem. Personally, I stop any pruning around the last week in July to let the plants grow uninterrupted for a few weeks before they initiate flowering in mid-August. I hope that helps, best of luck with your crop!
What if the genetics of my seeds only need 6-7 weeks, can i still start them at end of march until end of september? And can i start the first weeks indoor with a 300W light ? if yes how long can i let them indoor ?
Tim Alchimia 2021-03-30
Hi Dylan, thanks for your comment. The time listed for the genetics you have will be for the flowering period (unless they’re auto-flowering genetics, you don’t mention that) and doesn’t include the time needed for vegetative growth. The time to sow the seeds will depend on how big you want the plants to get, if you sow them now and keep them under lights until, for example, May, before putting them outside then they’ll grow to a really good size and give you a great harvest. If, however, you don’t have much room outdoors or you want them to stay small and discreet then you’d be better sowing later in the season, although I wouldn’t leave it as late as September. If they are autos then you can sow them at any time, just be sure to calculate 6-7 weeks before your earliest frost date to ensure that they finish before the weather turns in autumn. I hope that helps, best wishes and happy growing!
Jordan P 2021-03-11
When I transplant into the ground how much nutrihemp do I add per plant?
Tim Alchimia 2021-03-12
Hi Jordan, thanks for your comment and question. Trabe recommends adding 200g of Nutrihemp for 70 L of substrate, so use that as a rough guide but the quantity you need will depend on the size of the hole that your digging as well as the fertility of the soil you’re planting into. For full-season plants you may have to add more to the soil surface throughout the season to maintain nutrient levels. I hope that helps. Best wishes and happy growing!
Hello, thanks for the information. Is there anyway to know what requirements should the soil have to plant cannabis? I have a field but i would like to know if it needs extra fertilizers and what quantities should i buy .
Tim Alchimia 2020-10-05
Hi, cannabis needs fertile and well-draining soil. I did a quick search for nutrient requirements and this is what I came up with: “Industrial hemp requires 80 to 100 lbs/ac (90 to 112 kg/ha) nitrogen, 35 to 50 lbs/ac (39 to 56 kg/ha) phosphate and 52 to 70 lbs/ac (60 to 80 kg/ha) potash. Hemp prefers a sufficiently deep, well-aerated soil with a pH of 6 or greater, along with good moisture and nutrient holding capacity. Poorly drained soils, however, are not recommended as excess surface water after heavy rains can result in damage to the hemp crop. Hemp is extremely sensitive to flooding and soil compaction.” I hope that helps, best wishes and happy growing!
Can i dig up a plant from ground and finish in a container??
Tim Alchimia 2020-10-02
Hi Will, thanks for your comment and question. Yes, if you carefully dig the plant up without damaging the root ball then there’s a good chance that it will survive although it’s also very easy to stress the plant so much that it simply stops developing after being transplanted. A lot will depend on the size of the plant, with smaller examples having a better chance of survival. To summarise, it’s not the ideal way to finish a plant but if there’s no other option then it’s way better than losing the entire crop! I hope that helps, best wishes and happy growing!
This is my first grow. I planted 3 clones in mid may. It’s the beginning of September now. They have gotten huge but haven’t flowered yet. It seems like they are getting plenty of sun throughout the day. What am I doing wrong? What can I do to start the flowering process?
Tim Alchimia 2020-09-04
Hi Kris, thanks for your comment and question. Do you know what variety the clones are? If they’re a Sativa-dominant hybrid or a pure Sativa then it’s fairly normal that they don’t initiate flowering until late in the season, going on to finish in November, December or even Jan/Feb in really extreme cases! If, on the other hand, they’re not Sativas then it could be that some light contamination is interrupting their night time dar period, which would prevent them from flowering. Check there are no street lamps or house lights nearby that could be causing the issue. If that’s the case then the only options would be to either move the plants to somewhere they don’t get light contamination (only if they’re in pots!), or alternatively you could force flowering by covering the plants with a light-proof cover of some sort, to fool the plants into thinking it’s night time. You’ll need to be very dedicated though, the plants will need to be covered and uncovered 12 hours apart, at the same time each day, for it to work properly. If the plants are in pots then you could move them into a dark garage or shed every evening, say at 8 pm, then you’d bring them out of the darkness at 8 am every morning, giving them 12 hours darkness (you can even do 13 hours darkness if you want them to flower a bit faster, but be consistent and don’t chop and change the light schedule! I hope that helps, best wishes and happy growing!
I am growing my plant outside, in the ground, this afternoon my plant fell over. It is about 5-6ft now. How can I save it? Help.
Tim Alchimia 2020-08-17
Hi and thanks for your comment. Oh dear, I’m sorry to hear about your plant but I’m sure it can be saved unñess the plant has snapped off completely, in which case I’m afraid it’s history. If the plant has simply flopped over without breaking then its easy to fix. Get some canes or sticks and poke them into the ground around your plant then tie your plant to them, using soft string or specialised plant ties. Alternatively, you can make a cage from chicken or sheep wire fencing. The less the plant can move in the wind, the better. I would water with some kelp meal solution and Aloe Vera juice to help offset the inevitable stress of falling over. I hope that helps, best wishes and happy growing!
When planting marijuana and other companion plants in a planter, how far apart should each companion plant be from the marijuana plants
Tim Alchimia 2020-08-10
Hi Tweak, thanks for the question. It’s a tough one because it will depend on the final size of the plants, both the cannabis and the companion plants. Try to plant them so that the cannabis won’t block out the light to the companion plant, but not so far away as to negate any of the positive effects. You also need to consider the vigour of the companion plants, for example, I like to use mint as a companion plant but it will take over the planter if I let it, so plants like this will go in a separate pot to avoid them swamping everything else. I hope that helps, best wishes and happy growing!
Dan Routledge 2019-10-29
Hi I’ve just did my first grow,I had to pull the plants because of severe frost . I’ve have them in pots with water in my garage ,how long can I have them in the buckets.
Tim Alchimia 2019-10-30
Hi Dan, thanks for your question, and congratulations on your first grow, nice one! If you change the water in the buckets every day (or more if they seem to be drinking lots) and keep the garage at a reasonable temperature – not too hot, not too cold, then they’ll be fine for a few days or up to a week if they were really healthy when you cut them down. You can start removing the large fan leaves to help reduce transpiration and to speed things up when you get around to start trimming them. Personally I wouldn’t wait too long, at this point they aren’t going to mature much more so the sooner you get them trimmed and drying the better, in my opinion. All the best and happy harvesting!
I am wondering if it would hurt or help if you remove the shade leaves on outdoor plants. I’ve grown a lot inside under led viparspectra 450 S and all ways remove leaves 1 n 3 week in flowering stage .I use lst ,supper cropping and go farms soil happy frog for seedling’s ocean forest for finishing . And I sometimes use my compost which I put cutting S out of lawn mower bag left over. Veggies I mow through the Wood to get sticks leaves and such I throw in a little. Bat guano fresh fish and some 00 60 and turn it till next spring .it seems to do good I’ve got a Saratoga growing in it and I have lst it ,supper cropped it and it is 6 feet tall and 16 feet around I love supper cropping it does wonders for them so does leaft defoliation help outside plants Thanks Rob
Tim Alchimia 2019-08-29
Hi Robert, thanks for your question. It certainly sounds like your soil is full of lots of life and great things, the compost sounds wonderful! I wouldn’t recommend defoliation on outdoor plants, at least not to the same extent as indoors, where all the shade leaves are removed (although it would be nice to do a comparative experiment with two of the same clones, one defoliated and the other not, just to see the results). However, outdoor plants can definitely benefit from having lower leaves and shoots cleaned up, removing anything that won’t receive much sunlight. This improves the air circulation to the lower parts of the plant and also helps to prevent mould and pests. I hope that helps, all the best and happy growing!
Hey I have a question that ive been trying to find an answer to but just can find one. I planted a “Fire OG” clone in my vegetable garden here on Bethel Island in they Bay Area CA right next to 2 “Purple Punch” clones, this is my first time growing weed ever actually but im eager to learn as much as i can so i can hopefully get great results. we live in a 2 story home right on one side of the levee and obviously water on the other. At night, id say 3 out of 5 nights it is hella fuckin windy and have placed bamboo sticks next to them so they dont damn near get blown the fuck away lol but can that wind still stunt their growth? also, being this is my first time at doing this i was un aware of “topping” so the 2 “purple punch” plants im guessing are too far along to even try it and are already starting to bud. but both “purple punch” plants only grew to be about.. idk. not even a foot tall. so i dont think ill get much off of them. but, before those 2 started budding and were still growing, along with the “fire OG” to the left of them, the “fire OG” really didnt seem to be doing anything at all. once the other 2 started flowering, the “fire OG” still seemed to be barely hanging on. so, i tired topping it, once i did a little research on tips and things like that. and it seems to have worked. i see the beginning to 2 new leading stems. and this “fire OG” plant is only idk.. about 7 maybe 8 inches tall. these first 3 plants have been in the ground for a month now (i really wish i would have kept an exact timeline on my plants now that im learing more) the friend who gave them to me is also growing outdoors (although his are being grown in big pots) are doing way better then ours. another thing i left out was, our garden was dug out in 2 stages and the stage to the left (the first stage) got mixed with a big ass bag of some type of soil im not exactly sure what kind either (this whole thing kind of started and happened on a fluke ya know lol) and that side was dug out by the friend who gave us our clones. i dug out the second side to the right 3 our 4 days later which got basically no type of any soil mixed with it at all. (we are real strapped for cash so we are just doing the best we can with what we got) this right side which i dug out is where these first 3 clones were put in the ground. and above after mentioning the stage they are at now, im just gonna leave the 2 “purple punches” where they are. but the “fire og” plant seems to have been slowly but steadily moving along with its 2 new leading stems but really not getting any bigger or taller. (the friend who helped us and is also growing outdoor in pots said his grew way taller then our is half the amount of time) so basically one of the things im wondering is, would it be a good decision to transplant the “fire og” for what would be the second time, (first time obviously being when we put it in the ground to begin with) into in a big pot like the one our friend has his in? filled with some type of soil (that would have to be on the cheaper side) or should i just leave it be? also when watering them, the ground around these 3 eroded a bit so i filled it back in with some left over soil from the original bag that was used on the left/first stage on our garden. hoping then when watering, its nutrients would soak down into the ground. my bad for writing so much but i just wanted to be as thorough as possible in describing everything so i can get the best answers possible. i also have a couple other things id like to ask but ill save those for after a later time lol thank you and hope to hear back soon, ONE LOVE!
Tim Alchimia 2019-05-28
Hey Freddie, thanks for your comment. Let me answer your doubts one by one. firstly, strong winds can certainly slow down a plant’s growth, but they can also strengthen the plant too. As long as it’s well- supported, some movement of the branches is a good thing, as it will encourage them to grow thick and sturdy. High winds can, however, stress the plant in other ways, for example, by causing too much transpiration and drying out the plant too much, so make sure they have enough water on windy days. Secondly, your Purple Punch plants are flowering because they were planted outdoors too early in the season. Clones that have been kept indoors under an 18/6 photoperiod will begin to flower immediately they’re put outdoors before mid-late May. This is because the natural photoperiod before this time is similar to autumn, with long nights and short days, which will mean plants will stop growing and begin flowering. I imagine your friend who supplied the clones must be giving his some supplemental lighting to either extend the daylight or break up the nighttime, if they’re doing as well as you say, otherwise they would have been flowering too. With the Purple Punch plants, I’d let them mature as much as possible, then I’d cut them back, making sure to leave some healthy flowers and leaves so that they can revegetate and give you another harvest at the end of summer. As the days get longer, the plant will receive the signal to begin growth again, and new shoots will emerge from the flowers, meaning the plant will be able to grow and get bigger over the summer before flowering again. It sounds like the Fire OG may have been stressed at transplant, so rather than start to flower, it just stayed in stasis for a while. If you can see it’s recovering now, then I certainly wouldn’t recommend moving it again, you’re likely to stress it and have the same situation until it recovers. I’d leave it where it is and begin to work on the fertility of the soil where it is planted. You can improve the soil by top-dressing, which is as simple as putting soil amendments on the surface around the plant and maybe working them into the top inch or so of soil. Without knowing what the existing soil is like, it’s hard to say what you’ll need, but some good quality worm castings would be a good start and aren’t expensive. Check out our article about Living Soil and you should get some idea of how earthworms and natural soil microbes can help you get the most out of your plants without spending a fortune of nutrients and soil! I hope that’s helped, all the best with this crop and happy growing!
Alison Mclarty 2019-04-02
Thank you for the article, very informative. I have a question on the land selection. If I want to buy a piece of land for growing, is there any requirements or criteria for choosing the land (i.e. flat land, soil and etc.)?
Tim Alchimia 2019-04-04
Hi Alison, thanks for the question. I’d look for land with a southerly aspect to maximise solar exposure. As far as soil goes, a rich fertile loamy soil that drains well is perfect, but it’s also feasible to improve the growing soil in terms of fertility, so I’d say that well-draining soil that isn’t going to get waterlogged or flood in heavy rain is the most important thing. You’ll also need to consider water supply for irrigation, which can make or break a grow operation. Flat, level land will be easier to work, but is generally more expensive to buy or rent. Hilly land can be terraced for growing, but that’s another expense and a lot of work. Avoid growing in a depression or dip, as cold air will settle in the lower areas, sometimes causing “frost pockets” in autumn, which can damage a crop quickly. Good air movement is essential in the growing area, but often this must be balanced against the discretion and privacy we growers often need for our plants, as we are forced to hide them to avoid theft or detection by law enforcement agents. That’s a few basic pointers for finding land suitable for cultivation, I hope it’s been some help. Happy growing!
Christopher Payne 2019-03-06
What exactly does this statement mean? “Mix the nutrients added to the soil in the ground and make a hole under each plant so that water and nutrients are preserved.” How do you make a hole under each plant that is already in the ground? Thanks
Tim Alchimia 2019-03-06
Hi Christopher, thanks for your question. I think this is a case of an article being written in Spanish and then later translated to English, so a few of the more nuanced meanings got lost in the process. Here, the idea is to make a dip or a slight depression in the soil around the base of the plant to avoid the water and nutrients running off straight away and being wasted. I hope that clears things up, I’ll go in and make a change to the article so there’s no more confusion 😉 All the best and happy growing!
Idky but everywhere i look i dont get the answer im looking for i just wanna know if you can just put a seed in the ground after germination with a little soil and just waterinh it everyday but no one has a simple answer like that everyones buying grow chemicals etc. but ik that you can now bc started late in the season and i was told i probably wasnt gonna get any yeilds but i figured out they were wrong bc now i got a plant thats growing 22 buds so i think im in the clear for some bud this year just wanted to post this if anyone else had the same question amd one more thing is im growing a plant inside on a small 45w light im getting a better light soon just to start off but my plant went through stress and it mutated but it seems to be a good mutation everything its growing its growing double of idk if anyones seen this before but i just wanna knoe if it would increase the yeild considering its doubling
Tim Alchimia 2018-09-05
Hi John, thanks for your comment and questions. For sure, you can put a seed in the ground after germination and as long as the soil is good then you can give it only water without any problems. I wouldn’t water it every day from the stat though, at first it will only use very little water, and excess irrigation will water-log the soil, and stress the plant due to lack of oxygen in the rootzone. as well as potentially causing mould problems. There’s no need to buy chemicals to grow weed, although some good organic fertilisers can make a huge difference to the quantity and quality of your harvest. As for your second question, it’s unusual that stress in early stages has caused the plant to grow double the size, usually growth would be restricted by stressful conditions. Without knowing the reason for this phenomenon I’d say that if growth is doubling then it follows that the yield will also be increased too, although it could simply be the natural stretch period that plants go through at the beginning of flowering, which is more pronounced in some genetics than in others. You can read a bit more about the stretch here on our blog. All the best and happy growing!
I have 4 plants 5′ tall growing directly in the soil. I am located in southern B.C. and get lots of daylight hours during the summer and they seem to be happy. I want to have them be finished their flower before the end of September when frost arrives, but day/ night light ratios are still at 16/8 right now at the end of July. I built a frame to hold a light blocking cover but l still think a bit of light is still showing through during the 4 extra but slowly diminishing daylight hours and affecting my efforts. How crucial is this? Should I cover it further with black plastic? What would be better?
Tim Alchimia 2018-07-30
Hi Wendy, thanks for your question. I’d advise you to use an extra cover if you think that some light is getting through the one you’re using. It’s important that the plants get full darkness, any light leaks could slow down flowering and even potentially stress the plants to cause hermaphrodite/intersex problems. I hope that helps, all the best and happy growing!
Iv planted about 5 shash seeds on a small surface area of about 7inches and they have sprouted young plants with the monocots and new centre leaves can thy be transplanted or shud I wait till there bigger please help. Walter KENYA
Tim Alchimia 2017-12-07
Hi Walter, thanks for your question. The seeds were planted in soil, right? I think it’s probably best to let them grow a little bit more, once they’ve got a couple of sets of true leaves their root system ought to be robust enough to be able to transplant them safely. The trick is to do the transplant before the roots of the 5 plants become too entangled with each other, and be very delicate with the fine and easily breakable roots when transplanting. Good luck and happy growing!
I was told of a disguise for growing outdoor dope Go to the cheap shop and get the cheap flowers and place them on the plants, Looks like a bush with flowers.
Tim Alchimia 2017-11-17
Hi Kerrie, thanks for that ingenious tip, what a good idea! I’ve heard of people hanging plastic tomatoes or other fruit from their plants in an attempt to disguise them, but flowers really do make a lot more sense! Thanks again!
Never top use a fim techniques
I transplanted my two girls right into my established veggie garden. We’ve been adding composted leaves and Fall leaves each Spring to soil, and then roto-tilling. I don’t like using any chemicals, either for fertilizer or for insecticides. Will I need to add additional fertilizer to the two girls as they approach flowering time? I’m already going to have to use Neem.oil.spray – I noticed some red spider mite damage on.one plant, normal for outside this time of t 🙂 e year
Dani Alchimia 2017-07-10
Hi Koren55, Once flowering time comes, you can add some slow-release organic nutrients to the soil, also liquid organic nutes once into bloom if you see the need. Hope it helped!
Can you just plant your seeds around your yard just in normal dirt and expect them to grow naturally or is soil the only way?
Dani Alchimia 2017-03-20
Hi Ruben, Normally, people use quality soil to grow their plants, it is one of the do’s for any grower, otherwise you may have problems like poor development and yields. What people do is digging a hole in the ground and filling it with quality substrate. The bigger the hole, the more quality substrate you can put in, so the better your plants will grow. You can mix your soil with solid nutrients or use liquid fertilizers to have more control on the exact dose. Hope it helped!
Gene Dattapoli 2016-04-15
Could you please explain, preferably with pictures, how to “prune the apical areas from the seventh or eighth pair of true leafs”
Dani Alchimia 2016-04-22
Hi Gene, You just have to cut the tops of the plants. Count the pairs of leaves starting from the lower part of the plants, and cut the tops when you reach the 7th or 8th pair of leaves. In this way, you’ll get two tops on each stem/branch, and the plant will look more bushy and compact. Hope it helped!
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