How Soon Can I Weed And Feed After Seeding

Lawns In October Seeding in October – Soil temperatures are still well into the 70s; we’ve not had a single overnight temperature much below 50; it’s still prime time for seeding/overseeding How Soon Can I Weed And Feed After Seeding Fall (September and early October) and spring (April to early June) are the best times to plant grass seed because seed germinates best when Nature’s Seed is a top seller of North America’s best grass seed for lawn, pasture and wildflower seed solutions.

Lawns In October

Seeding in October – Soil temperatures are still well into the 70s; we’ve not had a single overnight temperature much below 50; it’s still prime time for seeding/overseeding lawns. Please bear in mind that all meaningful seeding in our growing area should be done in the fall. Warm soil temperatures encourage faster, more complete seed germination; good overnight dews and more regular rainfall (normally) get new seed well established before cold weather arrives. As the ground cools deeper into the fall it cools from the top down, which means that it is always cooler at the surface than 2-3” deep in the soil, which encourages roots to go deeper as they seek warmer soil. Spring, on the other hand, is the complete opposite for seeding: colder soil slows seed germination greatly. Even after germination, roots establish poorly in the cooler soil and remain at the surface where the soil is warmer. The spring seeding season is short followed by summer, with the hardest growing conditions of the year. Spring is for emergency seeding; fall is for meaningful seeding.

Because we’ve had the current dry spell during late August and September, we encourage all of you who either have already seeded or will be seeding to supplement what little moisture we’ve received for good seed germination and establishment. We recommend frequent (daily, if possible) light watering from seeding through germination. This is to keep the seed wet, soften the seed coat and speed germination. After the seed is completely germinated and is growing nicely, water less frequently but more deeply, leaving sprinklers in one spot for 20-30 minutes before moving to other areas. And watering in the morning is best, although watering to promote germination can be done later in the day. And, if we start to get regular rainfall (at least ¾”-1”/week) watering AFTER GERMINATION AND ESTABLISHMENT will not be necessary. The overnight dews will suffice in getting the whole lawn growing nicely.

Broadleaf Weed Control in October – Dandelions and plantain, as well as many other of the cool-warm weather active perennials are still actively growing. They can be easily removed from lawns in October with a single application of TRIMEC liquid herbicide. Warmer weather active weeds like clover and wild strawberry have perceptibly slowed in their growth by now and will be more difficult to eliminate, but in some lawns can be removed. Cool weather active weeds like ground ivy, wild violets, and others are starting to grow actively now, and will be readily controlled by TRIMEC at this time (and into November). It is important to kill perennial weeds in the fall, at the ends of their growing seasons, so we will not be bothered by them in the spring. However, if you have seeded this fall, or plan to seed, we recommend that you NOT apply TRIMEC (or any herbicide) until next spring. Seeding takes precedence in the fall. It’s too late to do a full lawn application of Trimec due to the 2 week waiting period until seeding can take place. You won’t get complete germination and plant establishment before the cold weather arrives. If you fall into this category, remember next year to apply TRIMEC in the late-August to mid-September window where you can treat weeds, wait 2 weeks and still seed with best results.

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Fertilizing Lawns in October – It is key that any lawn fertilizer applied in October not be the last feeding of the year. We strongly recommend two fall feedings for all lawns: early fall AND late fall. Of the 2, the late fall WINTERFEAST feeding is by far the more important for the lawn. It is intended to subtly green the lawn before dormancy, but is primarily to promote root growth after the above-surface turf has gone almost dormant. This will keep the lawns green until the ground freezes, will stimulate deeper and denser root growth this winter, and will green the lawn early next spring without pushing lots of top growth. Having said that, and if you haven’t yet fed your lawn this fall, you should a.) feed it right away, with our early fall fertilizer (19-2-6) and feed again, with WINTERFEAST fertilizer after Thanksgiving, or b.) withhold feeding until late October or early November, and then apply your WINTERFEAST fertilizer.

Liming in October – All lawns in this region benefit from being limed every year in order to neutralize the inherent soil acidity we are blessed with. Liming regularly makes fertilizers work better by making the full affect of the nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium more readily available to the grass plants. In acidic soils, both macro (NPK) and micronutrients react chemically with the low pH of the soil and create compounds that bind them to the soil thus making them less available to the plants. You get less greening power, less root development, less fertilizer effectiveness.

Mowing and Leaf RemovalDo not put mowers away yet. The grass is still growing, and will continue to grow for at least another 2 months, albeit less fast as temperatures fall. Our objective with lawns is to have all lawns mowed closely (2.5”-3”) when it goes dormant for the winter season. So, keep mowing every week to ten days until after Thanksgiving. If lawns are long when winter sets in, the late falling leaves and snow falling will mat the grass down and encourage dormant diseases and an early spring mess. Another reason to continue mowing through November is that leaves will continue to fall through November, which can be detrimental to newly established and mature grass plants. By mowing regularly (at least every 7-10 days) you’ll be chopping up the leaves that fall or blow onto the lawn, thus keeping the turf upright, tight and clear.

How Soon Can I Weed And Feed After Seeding

Fall (September and early October) and spring (April to early June) are the best times to plant grass seed because seed germinates best when temperatures are between 61ºF and 70ºF. Plant the seed when temperatures are between 60ºF to 80ºF.

– Know the coverage area (L x W of area)

– Most grasses require at least 4 to 6 hours of sunlight every day.

Before planting grass seed prep the area by raking to loosen the top layer of soil and remove dead grass. The seed must make contact with the soil in order to take root. Don’t plant grass seed too soon after applying a weed prevention or control product. Especially crabgrass preventers.

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Using a spreader, first apply your starter fertilizer, then apply your seed. Seed can be covered with Penn Mulch or a thin layer of top soil when applying seed directly to ground. Ensure seed is evenly spread. Don’t over apply grass seed because the seedlings need enough space to access water and nutrients. Make sure there is some bare ground visible. By applying Penn Mulch or soil after seeding will help the seed germinate quicker, prevent birds from eating the seed and protect the seed from direct sunlight.


Watering is the critical step to seeding success by keeping the soil surface moist. Gently water your newly planted grass seed at least once a day until it has grown 2 inches tall. Remember to water sunny areas more often than shady. Unlike established grass, newly planted grass needs to be watered more frequently as opposed to deeply. Do not water so heavily that the water pools and causes your seed to wash away. Keep pets, mowers and foot traffic away from newly planted grass seed until the grass is 3 inches high. Re-apply grass seed if the seed washes away or is eaten by birds/other animals.

Seed will begin to grow in 5-10 days. You can mow the seedlings when they reach 3 inches in height. Don’t use a weed prevention on your newly planted grass seed. Wait until after at least 3 mowings. Lawn Food can be applied over your entire lawn 6-8 weeks after seeding. By feeding your lawn it provides the nutrients it needs to grow thick and green. Store grass seed in a cool and dry place to prevent heat and moisture from damaging the seed and reducing its germination rate.

General Maintenance Guidelines

If you keep your lawn healthy, you’ll do a lot to keep weeds from taking over. Just follow these simple tips, and your lawn will look the way you always wanted it to.

– Mow High and Keep Blades SHARP: Some people think that healthy lawns look like putting greens. The fact is longer grass grows longer, healthier roots. By raising the setting on your lawnmower (and keeping your blades sharp), you’ll do a lot to help your grass grow thick and healthy. A thick lawn keeps weeds out.

– Feed Your Lawn: Lawns need nutrients. Regular feeding helps them develop healthy roots and blades. Start with a spring feed around the first time that you mow. Follow with a late summer, fall, and Thanksgiving feeding, and your lawn will be as lush and beautiful as you want it to be. If weeds have been well established in your yard, start out with a weed-and-feed product.

– Water the Right Way: Lawns need water, but not too much or too little. Give your lawn a deep watering about once or twice a week. Frequent, shallow watering doesn’t do much for lawns, but it’s really helpful for weeds. Too little water stresses the lawn, and invites more weeds to set up shop in your yard.

– Control Weeds: Maybe you have a battle going on in your yard, and the weeds are winning. In that case, you need to take more direct measures throughout the growing season. In the spring, feed your lawn with a product containing a pre-emergent. This will take care of grassy weeds.

How to Fertilize Your New Bermudagrass Seed Lawn

Planting your new lawn from Bermuda Grass seed requires soil nutrients for good growth in addition to water and sunlight. However, not every soil is ideal for providing adequate nutrition for Bermuda grass seeds, especially the low quality soils that typically surround new construction. Fertilizing at the right time of year is necessary for adding supplemental nutrients to help your Bermudagrass maintain its optimum health and beauty after it is established.

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Most of the nutrients your Bermuda grass seed needs are already supplied to the roots of your grass in small, trace amounts through natural occurring soil processes. However, Bermudagrass lawns, as with any grass lawn, require three especially important nutrients—nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K)—in larger quantities than are readily available in most soils. Lawn fertilizers are formulated to provide these nutrients at higher levels than are typically available naturally within most soils.

All commercial fertilizers display three numbers somewhere on their bag, representing its particular combination of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. These numbers are the percentages of these nutrients in the fertilizer and are separated by dashes, such as 4-6-4 (or N-P-K). In the example of a 4-6-4 (totaling 14%), the remaining 86% of the fertilizer is made up of filler material (and sometimes other trace ingredients such as calcium, magnesium, iron, etc.) meant to give you the bulk needed to spread the fertilizer evenly over your yard. In the case of an organic based fertilizer, the additional weight is not filler, but organic matter, a much needed soil component in sandy and clayey soils.

Newly seeded Bermudagrass seed lawns need nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in a much different combination than an already established lawn, and thus most fertilizers are not formulated to meet the needs of a newly seeded Bermudagrass lawn. When planting your new Bermudagrass seeds make sure to select a “starter” fertilizer, or an organic, “slow-release” fertilizer. Do not use “weed & feed” fertilizers intended for use on established lawns, as these include weed preventing chemicals in combination with the fertilizer that can severely damage or kill new seedlings.

The phosphorus and potassium in your fertilizer needs to be easily accessible to the seedlings and so it is best to work the fertilizer into the soil as one of the final steps before spreading your Bermudagrass seeds. To do this, use a seed spreader to apply the fertilizer evenly. Then incorporate it into the topsoil, either manually with a rake and shovel, or mechanically with the use of a tiller. Do not work the fertilizer deeper than 4″ into the topsoil.

About 4-8 weeks after the Bermudagrass seeds germinate you should fertilize your grass again. Do not continue to use starter fertilizer for this second application. The higher phosphorus content of starter fertilizers is an important nutrient right after your grass seed has germinated, but once established, your lawn no longer needs phosphorus at such a high rate. Moreover, phosphorus runoff is a contributor to surface and groundwater pollution. Instead, use either a more traditional type fertilizer, or an organic, slow-release fertilizer such as an 18-1-8 formulation which is better suited for an existing lawn. Use your seed spreader to apply the fertilizer in two directions. Make sure not to over-apply by following the application rate provided on the fertilizer’s packing. Sweep any fertilizer granules that end up on the sidewalk or driveway back onto the bluegrass lawn. Water the lawn immediately after fertilizing to allow the nutrients to filter down through the soil to the roots.